.JPG)
Z Arequipy nejsou zadne prime busy do Chile. Takze jedeme nejdrive do Tacna a pak do Arica. Na hranicich jsou tentokrat prisnejsi a prochazeji kompletne vse. 90% autobusu veze desitky roli toaletniho papiru. Asi je v Peru o dost levnejsi nez v Chile. Ani v Arice se nezdrzujeme a jedeme rovnou do Iquique. A uz pri koupi listku vime, ze tu trochu budeme mit problemy s penezi. Stejne jako v Italii nebo Polsku jeste pred par lety vse stoji desetitisice. Nejvetsi mince je 500pesos a kurz 710pesos za euro prepocitavani neulehcuje. Vlastne uz od Arequipy jedeme cely den pousti a Chiskou cast jeste doplnuje velika propast po leve strane. Na prvni pohled je videt, ze je Chile oproti vetsine ostatnich zemi JA bohate. Supermarkety, nova auta, smlouvani se neujalo ani na trhu. Na prechodu auta stavi a nechavaji nas prejit, to v takovem Peru a Bolivii se na cervenou ani tak moc nehraje a vlezt do cesty rozjetemu autu je sebevrazda.
Mesto krome centra a hlavni tridy nestoji za moc, ale plaze a promenada ano. Pacifik neni nijak extra teply, ale ty vlny od rana do vecera! Nekdy az 4m. Hned po praci a skole ze vsech bytovek kolem pobrezi vybehnou mistni a nesou surf prkno nebo bodyboard (kratsi verze na ktere se lezi). A je na co koukat, vypada to tak jednoduse, chytit vlnu, projet se tunelem a pak dat treba salto zpatky pres vlnu. Budeme tu par dni a tak zvazuju, ze bych sel do kursu surfovani. V Irsku jsem to planoval dlouho a nedostal se k tomu. Prvni den pujcuji jen bodyboard abych se trochu vyradil. A hodne rychle zjistuji, ze to opravdu neni tak lehke jak to vypada ze brehu. Parkrat se mi podari se pekne projet a je to slusna jizda, ale vetsinu casu se citim jak ve velke pracce kde se zasekl program machani, netusim kde je nahore a kde dole (to poznam jen kdyz me to splachne moc blizko brehu a popotahne po dne). Neuspech dne zakoncim tim, ze me jedna vlna doslova narve na prkno a zebra silne protestuji. Zlepsi se to asi za dva dny a rozhodnu se to vyzkouset znovu, vlny jsou jeste vetsi nez pri mem prvnim pokusu a ve vode vydrzim jen pul hodky, vlna si poda moje zebra o dost drive a o dost silneji nez poprve (ted je tyden pozdeji a jeste porad nemuzu lezet na leve strane). Tim tak nejak skoncili me pateticke pokusy naucit se na bodyboardu (k surfu jsem se vubec nedostal), dalsi sance bude na Zelandu, ale do vody tam uz bez instruktora nevlezu.
Snazime se sehnat tour do Atacamy, nejnehostinejsi pouste sveta ktera se tahne stovky kilometru do vsech stran, ale je uz po sezone a nikdo nedokaze naplnit jeep. Tak alespon zajdeme k Cerro Dragon, nejvetsi mestske dune, aby jsme okusili neco malo z nejsussiho mista planety. Vecer prijizdi Keiran po svem okruhu Argentinou a Chile a tam muzeme oslavit sv. Patrika s Irem.
Pak uz nas ceka jen let do Santiaga. Letime docela nizko a tak muzeme seshora dohnat to co jsme nestihli po zemi. Atacama je krasna a zrovna tak Aconcagua, tyci se vysoko nad vse ostatni nedaleko letiste v Santiagu.
Fotky na kterych se Jance povedlo me vyfotit hned po mem neuspechu jsou nize (mame i video, ale je moc velke pro upload). A jak si nelze nevsimnout, jsem historicky na nejnizsi vaze, ani nechci vedet kolik (muze za to Cusco). Takze pokud nekdo zvazuje nejakou drahou dietu doporucujeme jako alternativu cestu nekam do chudsi exotiky :)
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=55664&id=1344786025&l=79fc1e19c4
From Arequipa there are no direct buses to Chile. So we head to Tacna first and then to Arica. The border crossing is more strict this time and customs officers check everything including content of our bags. 90% of the passengers bring just bags full of toilet paper. It must be much cheaper in Peru than Chile. In Arica we stay just for lunch and go straight to Iquique. And when buying ticket we know straight away we´ll have a bit of problems with the Chilean pesos. Similar to Italy or Poland couple years ago everything cost thousands. Largest coin is of 500pesos value and rate exchange 710 to a euro does not make counting easier.
The whole journey from Arequipa to Iquique goes through desert, add a big gorge on the left in Chile. On the first glance we can see that Chile is on a higher level than most of SA countries. Supermarkets, new cars, no haggling even at markets. When crossing road cars stop, in Peru and Bolivia is red light most of the time just a decoration and entering road with cars in motion a suicide.
Besides the main square and street there is not much to the town. But the beaches are definitely worth mentioning. Pacific ocean is not too warm, but the waves and all the day! Sometimes up to 4m. After work and school is finished locals from all the houses at the beaches go surfing or bodyboarding. And it´s a great show to watch. It looks so easy, catch a wave, have a ride through tunnel of water and then do a flip on the top to catch next wave. We´ll be here couple days so I consider taking a surf class. Something I wanted to do in Ireland but never got to it.
I go for a bodyboard the first day just to get a taste. And I realize very quickly that it´s not as easy as it looks from the shore. I manage to have a few good rides, but most of the time I feel like inside of a huge wash machine where rinse program gets jammed. I haven´t got a clue where up and down is (only if I get dragged to close to the shore and my head rubs off the bottom). The success of the day reaches the finish when one big wave smashes me on the board hard and my ribs raise a protest. It gets better in two days so it´s a time for a second round. The waves are even bigger than first time and I last only half an hour. Wave shatters me much sooner and stronger than 2 days ago (now it´s week later and I still cannot lay on the left side). That is how I finished my pathetic conquer of Iquque waves on the bodyboard. Next chance will be on New Zealand, this time I think I wont try without taking a course first...
We are trying to find a tour to Atacama completely surrounding the town. It´s the most dry desert in the world. But the season is finished and no tour operator is able to fill the car. At least we walk to the Cerro Dragon, biggest city dune.
Keiran arrives in the evening from his circuit over Argentina and Chile. So we can celebrate St. Patrick with an Irishman.
After that we fly to Santiago. The flight goes quite low so we can catch up on few things we missed while going overland. Atacama is beautiful and so is Aconcagua, towering above everything very close to Santiago airport.
Pictures are below. Jana managed to take few after my big success in the water (we have a video as well but it´s too big to upload). And as you can notice, I reached probably my historical bottom weight, don´t even want to know how much (blame Cusco). So if anybody considers an expensive diet I´d recommend a trip to Peru as an alternative :)
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=55664&id=1344786025&l=79fc1e19c4
Friday, 19 March 2010
Sunday, 14 March 2010
Arequipa (Peru)
Arequipa je o dost nize (2300mnm) oproti predeslym tydnum pobytu a je to znat. Da se opet bez obtizi dychat a je tu leto. Mesto je mnohem hezci nez jsme cekali. Ale nejvetsi zmena je v mistnich lidech. Jsou uplne jini nez v horach. Dalo by se rici, vice civilizovani, prodejci nejsou vubec agresivni a jedno ne staci. Take tu misto trhu maji obchody! Hlavni atrakci mesta je klaster Santa Catalina. Rozkladajici se na plose nekolika bloku tvori krasny labyrint uzkych ulicek, namesticek a pruchodu. Zdi natrene na modro, bilo nebo cihlovou barvou a kolem udrzovane zahony a zahrady s poletujicimi kolibriky. Absolutni klid - I kdyz nevim jestli bych tu chtel zit cely zivot bez kontaktu s okolnim svetem jako mnoho sester radu.
Pote jdeme na morce, narodni pochoutka. Nam nijak vyjimecne nepripada, ale je odzkouseno.
Dalsi den - budicek v 5, za 40min jsme na nadrazi, ale listky do Colca kanonu uz nejsou, tak kupujeme az na bus v 9. Jeste je to pak zpozdene a v Chivay si nechame narvat listek do parku o kterem vime, ze ho nemame kupovat. Termalni lazne v Chivay jsou dobre, ale nejak nas nebavi vzhledem k tomu, ze je ve stinu kolem 30. Dnes se nedari. Po koupeli pokracujeme do Cabanoconde. Bus je narvanej jako kdyby to mel byt posledni bus behem pristiho mesice a prakticky sedime po 3, plus dvojnasobek lidi v ulicce. Ale za chvili vime, ze vsechny tu utrapy dne k necemu byly - pohledy dolu do 2. nejhlubsiho kanonu sveta jsou nadherne. Zelene terasy s barevnymi policky, stromy, lamy, osli. Nejhlubsi kanon sveta je jen kousek odsud, ale pry neni tak pekny, tak vsichni jezdi sem. Behem vecere se seznamime s ceskou Pavlou a domluvime se spolecne na dvoudenni trek kanonem.
Prvni cil je vyhlidka San Miguel. Nalepil se na nas jeden z mistnich psu co se chce porad kamaradit. O tom, ze nejsme nejlepsi spolecnici a dole v kanonu by se mu urcite nelibilo ho presvedci az 3 presne trefy kamenem. Z vysky vidime co nas ceka a je to impozantni. Je opravdu ta tenka linie dole reka kterou prekrocime, a ty leskle tecky v zeleni strechy domu? Zaciname 4h sestup uzkou kamenitou cestou strme dolu (zmena, zatim vzdy vsechny treky vedly nejdrive nahoru) a potkavame jen muly a osli, BMW mistnich srazu, nalozene tahnouci naklad nahoru. Dole u reky je kontrola vstupenek do kanonu o kterych veskere pruvodce rikaji, ze nemame mit. Pavla nema, ale naschval zaplati 100. Po 15ti min premysleni, kdy strazce nema nazpatek ji pousti dal. Konec pouste, druhy breh je jiny svet s vlastnim tropickym mikroklima. Rozhodneme se pochutnat si na kaktusovych plodech a pak pul hodiny tahame z prstu jemne jehlicky. Cesty jsou neznacene, ale vubec nam nevadi, ze bloudime. Nadsene trhame fiky, avokada, citrony a kukurici a cpeme se co to jde. Pote zjistujeme, ze absolutne netusime kde jsme a mistni zena, ktere tece potok primo pred prahem a pere v nem, nam radi kudy dal. Po hodine stoupani ve vedru se cesta uplne vytrati a hledame, hledame, az se vratime o 100vky metru zpatky k domu s pani. Tentokrat je venku pan domu a kdyz zjisti jak spatne na tom jsme jde s nami a navede nas. Jak jsme mohli minout tuhle odbocku?! Za chvilku uz jdeme pres zaveseny most pres propast. Stoupak jako prase a jsme tam kde jsme chteli byt pred 3mi hodinami. Malata, mestecko z hliny postavene podel cesty vydlabane ve svahu. A pohledy na kilometrove steny nahoru i dolu jsou nepopsatelne. Dame zaslouzenou Inca Kolu (chut bananove bonpari, barva nuklearni moci) a rozloucime se s Pavlou co tu chce zustat par dni. My pokracujeme dale a na pristi odbocce jdeme doleva, jak nam bylo receno. Ve tretine kopce dolu potkavame skupinu turistu s pruvodcem a ten nam rika, ze jdeme spatne! Takze znovu nahoru a dolu. A pak konecne po celodennim vlaceni vidime Raj! A to doslova. Za hodinu a pul jsme dole na dne kanonu mezi palmami, domu z babusu a prirodnich bazenu kde smyjeme nanos prachu. Vecer sedime a popijime se skupinou turistu z Kanady, Iska, Rakouska a Francie. Paradni vecer plny srandy. Jeste pred spanim se pokochame nocni oblohou. Nikde zadna svetla a tak vidime uplne ciste mlecnou drahu jak protina kanon napric.
Opet budicek chvilku po 5. Chceme byt co nejdrive na ceste a vyhnout se smrtelnemu stoupani ve vedru. 1200m vzhuru prachem a kamenim, sem tam nas predbehne karavana mul a nekdy nesou i nejakeho toho turistu na ktereho je to moc. Odmenou nahore je pohled zpatky dolu na celou nasi trasu a 2 plachtici kondory. Lide v udoli a kolem jsou mili a nezkazeni turismem. Usmivaji se, zdravi prvni a po fotu nechteji penize. Uzasny vylet, nejvyssi bod cesty 4800mnm, nejnizssi Oaza Raj 2100mnm. Cesta zpet do Arequipy uz snad da nazvat jen vizualnim kycem, policka v terasach hraji vsemi barvami, za tim 6tis hory, hluboko dole reka a svetlo pred bourkou...
Foto:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=55662&id=1344786025&l=b4cf3a1934
Arequipa is much lower (2300m) compared to previous weeks of our stay and we can feel the difference. No problems with breathing and summer is back. Town is much prettier than we expected. But the biggest change is in the local people. They are very different to the mountain people, we could say more civilized, no aggressive sellers, saying not interested once is enough. Also they have normal shops instead of markets! The main attraction of the town is Santa Catalina monastery. Spreading over the area size of couple blocks, creating beautiful maze of narrow streets, squares and corridors. All walls of blue, white and brick colour, well maintained gardens with fluttering hummingbirds. Absolute tranquility - although I´m not sure if I wanted to spend here entire life without contact with outer world as many nuns did.
After that we go and try guinea pig, national delicacy. We don´t think it´s anything special, not much meat to feast on. At least we can tick this one off.
Next day - alarm at 5, in 40mins we are at the bus station. But all the tickets to Colca canyon are gone. So we have to take the one at 9. Then it´s delayed and in Chivay we buy ticket we know we are don´t need. Thermal baths are nice, but not a best idea considering it´s around 30degrees in the shade. Today is not our lucky day. After the baths we head to Cabanoconde. The bus is packed so much like it was the last bus going this month, we practically sit 3 in a row on each side, plus double that standing in the middle. But after few minutes we know that all hardships of the day were worth it - looking down the second deepest canyon of the world is very cool. Green terraces with colourful fields, trees, lamas and donkeys. The deepest canyon is not far from here but apparently it´s not so nice so everybody comes here. At the dinner we meet a Czech girl and team up for the 2day trek down the canyon.
The first stop is viewpoint San Miguel. Local dog sticks upon us and wants to make new friends. We are trying to persuade him that we are not the best companions and that he definitely wouldn´t like the heat down the canyon. The point is taken only after few stones are thrown. We look from the top at what is expecting us in next days, impressive. Is that thin line down below really the river we´ll cross, and the shiny spots in green roofs of the houses? 4hrs descent goes via narrow sheer path and all we meet are mules and donkeys, local BMW, loaded to the top with heavy packs. Down at the river we meet ranger checking the canyon entry tickets, the ones we bought and that all guides say we don´t need. Our new Czech friend doesn´t have it so out of spite pays with a 100 soles note. Of course she´ll achieve what she wants, ranger waits for 15mins what will happen, but no other change comes in his way so he has to let us go without a ticket. End of desert, just cross the river and new world waits for us. World with its own tropical mikroclimate.
We decide to have a snack and pick up some cactus fruit. And then spend half an hour pulling out fine needles from our fingers. The paths are not marked at all, but we don´t mind and get lost quickly. All excited we feast on figs, avocados, lemons and corn. Only after that we realize that we don´t have a clue where we are. There is a house in the middle of trees, stream going through its door step and a woman does her washing in it. She points us in the right direction. One hour up, it´s really hot and the path trails off. We look for it so hard that we end up back at the house. This time it´s the husband of the woman that helps us. When we tell him how we managed to get lost he walks with us and shows us where to go. How could we miss this turn?! Few minutes later we walk across bridge hanging over the gorge. Steep, steep up and we reach a village we wanted to see 3hrs earlier.
Malata, village built from clay along the trail scooped out in the slope. And all around us huge walls going both up and down, wow. We earned this Inca Kola (taste of banana candy, colour of nuclear urine). We say good bye to Pavla who decided to spend here couple days and continue. Next turn to the left, that is what we were told. Third way down the hill we meet group of tourists with hired guide and he tells us go in the wrong direction. No, again up and down. And then after the whole day of hard walking we see the Paradise! And it´s real. Bottom of the canyon is full of palm trees, houses built from bamboo, and natural pools of fresh water. We have a great craic in the evening with group of Canadian-Irish-Austrian-French group. And before laying down to bed we have a chance to feast our eyes with night sky. No lights around so we can see clearly Milky Way cutting across the canyon.
Again alarm at 5. We want to avoid the heat on the way back up, that would be lethal. 1200m up through dust and rocks, again we meet just caravans of mules. Sometimes they carry a tourist that couldn´t take it any more. The award at the top is view back down seeing the whole track we walked and 2 gliding condors. People around the canyon are very nice and not spoiled by tourism. Keep smiling at us and don´t ask for money after a picture. What a great trip, highest point we reached 4800m, lowest Oasis Paradise 2100m...
Pics:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=55662&id=1344786025&l=b4cf3a1934
Pote jdeme na morce, narodni pochoutka. Nam nijak vyjimecne nepripada, ale je odzkouseno.
Dalsi den - budicek v 5, za 40min jsme na nadrazi, ale listky do Colca kanonu uz nejsou, tak kupujeme az na bus v 9. Jeste je to pak zpozdene a v Chivay si nechame narvat listek do parku o kterem vime, ze ho nemame kupovat. Termalni lazne v Chivay jsou dobre, ale nejak nas nebavi vzhledem k tomu, ze je ve stinu kolem 30. Dnes se nedari. Po koupeli pokracujeme do Cabanoconde. Bus je narvanej jako kdyby to mel byt posledni bus behem pristiho mesice a prakticky sedime po 3, plus dvojnasobek lidi v ulicce. Ale za chvili vime, ze vsechny tu utrapy dne k necemu byly - pohledy dolu do 2. nejhlubsiho kanonu sveta jsou nadherne. Zelene terasy s barevnymi policky, stromy, lamy, osli. Nejhlubsi kanon sveta je jen kousek odsud, ale pry neni tak pekny, tak vsichni jezdi sem. Behem vecere se seznamime s ceskou Pavlou a domluvime se spolecne na dvoudenni trek kanonem.
Prvni cil je vyhlidka San Miguel. Nalepil se na nas jeden z mistnich psu co se chce porad kamaradit. O tom, ze nejsme nejlepsi spolecnici a dole v kanonu by se mu urcite nelibilo ho presvedci az 3 presne trefy kamenem. Z vysky vidime co nas ceka a je to impozantni. Je opravdu ta tenka linie dole reka kterou prekrocime, a ty leskle tecky v zeleni strechy domu? Zaciname 4h sestup uzkou kamenitou cestou strme dolu (zmena, zatim vzdy vsechny treky vedly nejdrive nahoru) a potkavame jen muly a osli, BMW mistnich srazu, nalozene tahnouci naklad nahoru. Dole u reky je kontrola vstupenek do kanonu o kterych veskere pruvodce rikaji, ze nemame mit. Pavla nema, ale naschval zaplati 100. Po 15ti min premysleni, kdy strazce nema nazpatek ji pousti dal. Konec pouste, druhy breh je jiny svet s vlastnim tropickym mikroklima. Rozhodneme se pochutnat si na kaktusovych plodech a pak pul hodiny tahame z prstu jemne jehlicky. Cesty jsou neznacene, ale vubec nam nevadi, ze bloudime. Nadsene trhame fiky, avokada, citrony a kukurici a cpeme se co to jde. Pote zjistujeme, ze absolutne netusime kde jsme a mistni zena, ktere tece potok primo pred prahem a pere v nem, nam radi kudy dal. Po hodine stoupani ve vedru se cesta uplne vytrati a hledame, hledame, az se vratime o 100vky metru zpatky k domu s pani. Tentokrat je venku pan domu a kdyz zjisti jak spatne na tom jsme jde s nami a navede nas. Jak jsme mohli minout tuhle odbocku?! Za chvilku uz jdeme pres zaveseny most pres propast. Stoupak jako prase a jsme tam kde jsme chteli byt pred 3mi hodinami. Malata, mestecko z hliny postavene podel cesty vydlabane ve svahu. A pohledy na kilometrove steny nahoru i dolu jsou nepopsatelne. Dame zaslouzenou Inca Kolu (chut bananove bonpari, barva nuklearni moci) a rozloucime se s Pavlou co tu chce zustat par dni. My pokracujeme dale a na pristi odbocce jdeme doleva, jak nam bylo receno. Ve tretine kopce dolu potkavame skupinu turistu s pruvodcem a ten nam rika, ze jdeme spatne! Takze znovu nahoru a dolu. A pak konecne po celodennim vlaceni vidime Raj! A to doslova. Za hodinu a pul jsme dole na dne kanonu mezi palmami, domu z babusu a prirodnich bazenu kde smyjeme nanos prachu. Vecer sedime a popijime se skupinou turistu z Kanady, Iska, Rakouska a Francie. Paradni vecer plny srandy. Jeste pred spanim se pokochame nocni oblohou. Nikde zadna svetla a tak vidime uplne ciste mlecnou drahu jak protina kanon napric.
Opet budicek chvilku po 5. Chceme byt co nejdrive na ceste a vyhnout se smrtelnemu stoupani ve vedru. 1200m vzhuru prachem a kamenim, sem tam nas predbehne karavana mul a nekdy nesou i nejakeho toho turistu na ktereho je to moc. Odmenou nahore je pohled zpatky dolu na celou nasi trasu a 2 plachtici kondory. Lide v udoli a kolem jsou mili a nezkazeni turismem. Usmivaji se, zdravi prvni a po fotu nechteji penize. Uzasny vylet, nejvyssi bod cesty 4800mnm, nejnizssi Oaza Raj 2100mnm. Cesta zpet do Arequipy uz snad da nazvat jen vizualnim kycem, policka v terasach hraji vsemi barvami, za tim 6tis hory, hluboko dole reka a svetlo pred bourkou...
Foto:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=55662&id=1344786025&l=b4cf3a1934
Arequipa is much lower (2300m) compared to previous weeks of our stay and we can feel the difference. No problems with breathing and summer is back. Town is much prettier than we expected. But the biggest change is in the local people. They are very different to the mountain people, we could say more civilized, no aggressive sellers, saying not interested once is enough. Also they have normal shops instead of markets! The main attraction of the town is Santa Catalina monastery. Spreading over the area size of couple blocks, creating beautiful maze of narrow streets, squares and corridors. All walls of blue, white and brick colour, well maintained gardens with fluttering hummingbirds. Absolute tranquility - although I´m not sure if I wanted to spend here entire life without contact with outer world as many nuns did.
After that we go and try guinea pig, national delicacy. We don´t think it´s anything special, not much meat to feast on. At least we can tick this one off.
Next day - alarm at 5, in 40mins we are at the bus station. But all the tickets to Colca canyon are gone. So we have to take the one at 9. Then it´s delayed and in Chivay we buy ticket we know we are don´t need. Thermal baths are nice, but not a best idea considering it´s around 30degrees in the shade. Today is not our lucky day. After the baths we head to Cabanoconde. The bus is packed so much like it was the last bus going this month, we practically sit 3 in a row on each side, plus double that standing in the middle. But after few minutes we know that all hardships of the day were worth it - looking down the second deepest canyon of the world is very cool. Green terraces with colourful fields, trees, lamas and donkeys. The deepest canyon is not far from here but apparently it´s not so nice so everybody comes here. At the dinner we meet a Czech girl and team up for the 2day trek down the canyon.
The first stop is viewpoint San Miguel. Local dog sticks upon us and wants to make new friends. We are trying to persuade him that we are not the best companions and that he definitely wouldn´t like the heat down the canyon. The point is taken only after few stones are thrown. We look from the top at what is expecting us in next days, impressive. Is that thin line down below really the river we´ll cross, and the shiny spots in green roofs of the houses? 4hrs descent goes via narrow sheer path and all we meet are mules and donkeys, local BMW, loaded to the top with heavy packs. Down at the river we meet ranger checking the canyon entry tickets, the ones we bought and that all guides say we don´t need. Our new Czech friend doesn´t have it so out of spite pays with a 100 soles note. Of course she´ll achieve what she wants, ranger waits for 15mins what will happen, but no other change comes in his way so he has to let us go without a ticket. End of desert, just cross the river and new world waits for us. World with its own tropical mikroclimate.
We decide to have a snack and pick up some cactus fruit. And then spend half an hour pulling out fine needles from our fingers. The paths are not marked at all, but we don´t mind and get lost quickly. All excited we feast on figs, avocados, lemons and corn. Only after that we realize that we don´t have a clue where we are. There is a house in the middle of trees, stream going through its door step and a woman does her washing in it. She points us in the right direction. One hour up, it´s really hot and the path trails off. We look for it so hard that we end up back at the house. This time it´s the husband of the woman that helps us. When we tell him how we managed to get lost he walks with us and shows us where to go. How could we miss this turn?! Few minutes later we walk across bridge hanging over the gorge. Steep, steep up and we reach a village we wanted to see 3hrs earlier.
Malata, village built from clay along the trail scooped out in the slope. And all around us huge walls going both up and down, wow. We earned this Inca Kola (taste of banana candy, colour of nuclear urine). We say good bye to Pavla who decided to spend here couple days and continue. Next turn to the left, that is what we were told. Third way down the hill we meet group of tourists with hired guide and he tells us go in the wrong direction. No, again up and down. And then after the whole day of hard walking we see the Paradise! And it´s real. Bottom of the canyon is full of palm trees, houses built from bamboo, and natural pools of fresh water. We have a great craic in the evening with group of Canadian-Irish-Austrian-French group. And before laying down to bed we have a chance to feast our eyes with night sky. No lights around so we can see clearly Milky Way cutting across the canyon.
Again alarm at 5. We want to avoid the heat on the way back up, that would be lethal. 1200m up through dust and rocks, again we meet just caravans of mules. Sometimes they carry a tourist that couldn´t take it any more. The award at the top is view back down seeing the whole track we walked and 2 gliding condors. People around the canyon are very nice and not spoiled by tourism. Keep smiling at us and don´t ask for money after a picture. What a great trip, highest point we reached 4800m, lowest Oasis Paradise 2100m...
Pics:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=55662&id=1344786025&l=b4cf3a1934
Tuesday, 9 March 2010
Puno-Cusco (Peru)
Formality na hranicich jsou bez problemu a tak nic nebrani pokracovani v ceste do Puna. Nakonec po tom vsem dojedeme jen s hodinovym zpozdenim. Ihned koupime podezrele levny listek na vecer do Cusca a jdeme do mesta. Na to jak jsme porad vysoko je hic. Na turistickych informacich nam radi, ze pokud chceme na vyhlidku mesta nemame brat krome obleceni nic nebo se jen nechat vyvezt taxikem a kouknout z okenka, tak tam opravdu nechceme. Radeji zajdeme na obed - a je to jeste levnejsi nez v Bolivii! 3 chody v hospode za 16kc je slusna cena. Pote se nechame riksou, kterych je plne mesto a nahrazuji taxiky, odvezt do pristavu. Pri cekani nez se naplni lod se stestim unikneme scamu. Chlapek stoji pred nami hraje na pistalu (hodne spatne, rozmyslim jestli mu nezaplatit hned at uz toho necha) a malej parchant se oknem zezadu natahuje pro cokoliv co lezi vedle nas na sedacce. Ale asi uz je to podmineny reflex, batohy jsou na zemi a skrz popruh mame protazenou nohu. Kazdopadne si kluka vsimneme az po predstaveni kdy odchazi, mit cokoliv na sedacce tak uz to nemame. Cekame docela dlouho nez se naplni lod, ale pak je to jen kratka jizda cestou v rakosu a jsme na plovoucich ostrovech Uros. Cele ostrovy, obydli, lode atd je vse z rakosu. Tradici zalozil kmen ktery prchal pred krvelacnym tazenim Inku. A stovky lidi Uros zde dodnes zije. Moc se nam tu libi, prezentace je zajimava. Jeste ten samy vecer jedeme nocnim busem do Cusca.
Cusco je krasne - na inckych zakladech kolonialni architektura. A je opravdu videt, ze to kdysi byl doslovne pupek sveta. Toto sebou zaroven nese vse co je spojene s obrovskym turismem - vsemozni prodejci, nahaneci, cistici bot, atd. Vsichni jsou absolutne neodbytni a i kdyz jim reknete, ze maji hnusne zbozi a ignorujeme je, dal otravuji. To co zbylo z inckych zdi je fascinujici. Dokonala presnost opracovani velkych balvanu - spary tenke jako papir se ani po tisiciletich nehnuly, a to musely preckat nekolik velkych zemetreseni. Vecer zaleham do postele a cely dalsi a jeste pristi den lezim s kombinaci chripky a strevnich potizi. Diky nedavnym sesuvum je tu turismus na tom tak bidne, ze se nam podarilo ukecat pokoj s tv a snidani z 90 na 30solu, tv vetsinou neni hlavni prioritou, ale ted jsem za ni hodne rad. Stesti, ze tu inkove kolem Cusca vybudovali 365 obradnich mist a Janca tak ma co delat.
Predposledni den je mi konecne lip a tak se pripojuji k Jance na puldenni tour. Porad jeste drzime nadeji na Macchu Picchu. Jeden podnikavec tu organizuje vylet jeepem pod MP. V pulnoci straze odchazeji, pak je mozno je obejit a behem 4h treku v noci vylezt nahoru, prespat na MP a pak je mit cely den jen pro sebe. Zni to hodne dobrodruzne, ale kdyz chceme vice detailu vse je velice vagni a ani nevime kdy by se jelo, takze nestihame zmenit listky na vecer do Arequipy. Skoda, musime to nechat na priste :) Uz takhle tu nechavame neprozkoumane Galapagy, amazonskou dzungli a Angels vodopad...
Fotky:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=55558&id=1344786025&l=d1a9382a3e
Formalities on the border are without any problems and so nothing prevents us from continuing to Puno. After all of that we have just an hour delay. After arrival we immediately buy suspiciously cheap ticket to Cusco and go to town. Considering how high we are it´s very hot. At the tourist office we are told not to bring anything except clothes to the town viewpoint. Or take the taxi and locked inside just have a look from the window. I think this is a place we really don´t want to visit. We rather go for a lunch - and it´s tiny bit cheaper than in Bolivia! 3 course lunch for 50c is decent price. Here in Puno rickshaws replaced most of the taxis so we take one to the port. And while waiting for the boat to fill in we luckily escape to a scam. A guy stands in front of us and plays pipe (very badly, we´re considering paying him just to finish it) and small brat leans through the window from behind for anything of value on the seats. But we´ve built this reflex when the backpack is on the floor and our legs go through the straps. But we notice the boy only when the playing is finished and he leaves. We wait quite long before the boat fills but then it´s only a short ride to the floating islands of Uros. The whole islands, houses, boats etc is built from reed. Tradition started with a tribe that wanted to escape bloodthirsty campaign of Incas. And hundreds of its people still live here. We like it a lot.
Cusco is very nice - colonial architecture built on Incas basements. And you can easily see how this place was literally bellybutton of the world. This brings along a lot of tourism - sellers, barkers, shoe polishers etc. All of them are absolutely persistent. Even when you tell them their merchandise is ugly and ignore them, they still stand next to you and wouldn´t go away. The remains of Incas walls are fascinating. Perfect working of big boulders - joints thin as paper haven´t moved for thousands years surviving many big earthquakes.
In the evening I go down with mixture of cold and some kind bowel disease. Thanks to recent landslides is the tourist industry suffering. So we managed to haggle the price for a room down from 90 to 30soles. Including TV and breakfast. TV is not usually our priority but now when I´m 3days in bed it´s very handy. Good that the Incas built 365 sacred places around Cusco and Jana has plenty to do.
Second last day of our stay here I get finally better and can join Jana for a tour.
We still hold a hope that we´ll see Macchu Picchu. One of the adventurous local guides offers to drive a jeep below MP. The guards leave at midnight, than we can cross the checkpoints, 4hrs of night trek up, sleep on MP and then have it all for ourselves. It sounds very promising and adventurous. But when we ask for more details everything is very vague and not even the leaving date is known. Unfortunately we don´t have time for this and leave for Arequipa. At least something to look forward for next time :) We already omitted Galapagos, Amazonian jungle and Angels fall...
Pics:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=55558&id=1344786025&l=d1a9382a3e
Cusco je krasne - na inckych zakladech kolonialni architektura. A je opravdu videt, ze to kdysi byl doslovne pupek sveta. Toto sebou zaroven nese vse co je spojene s obrovskym turismem - vsemozni prodejci, nahaneci, cistici bot, atd. Vsichni jsou absolutne neodbytni a i kdyz jim reknete, ze maji hnusne zbozi a ignorujeme je, dal otravuji. To co zbylo z inckych zdi je fascinujici. Dokonala presnost opracovani velkych balvanu - spary tenke jako papir se ani po tisiciletich nehnuly, a to musely preckat nekolik velkych zemetreseni. Vecer zaleham do postele a cely dalsi a jeste pristi den lezim s kombinaci chripky a strevnich potizi. Diky nedavnym sesuvum je tu turismus na tom tak bidne, ze se nam podarilo ukecat pokoj s tv a snidani z 90 na 30solu, tv vetsinou neni hlavni prioritou, ale ted jsem za ni hodne rad. Stesti, ze tu inkove kolem Cusca vybudovali 365 obradnich mist a Janca tak ma co delat.
Predposledni den je mi konecne lip a tak se pripojuji k Jance na puldenni tour. Porad jeste drzime nadeji na Macchu Picchu. Jeden podnikavec tu organizuje vylet jeepem pod MP. V pulnoci straze odchazeji, pak je mozno je obejit a behem 4h treku v noci vylezt nahoru, prespat na MP a pak je mit cely den jen pro sebe. Zni to hodne dobrodruzne, ale kdyz chceme vice detailu vse je velice vagni a ani nevime kdy by se jelo, takze nestihame zmenit listky na vecer do Arequipy. Skoda, musime to nechat na priste :) Uz takhle tu nechavame neprozkoumane Galapagy, amazonskou dzungli a Angels vodopad...
Fotky:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=55558&id=1344786025&l=d1a9382a3e
Formalities on the border are without any problems and so nothing prevents us from continuing to Puno. After all of that we have just an hour delay. After arrival we immediately buy suspiciously cheap ticket to Cusco and go to town. Considering how high we are it´s very hot. At the tourist office we are told not to bring anything except clothes to the town viewpoint. Or take the taxi and locked inside just have a look from the window. I think this is a place we really don´t want to visit. We rather go for a lunch - and it´s tiny bit cheaper than in Bolivia! 3 course lunch for 50c is decent price. Here in Puno rickshaws replaced most of the taxis so we take one to the port. And while waiting for the boat to fill in we luckily escape to a scam. A guy stands in front of us and plays pipe (very badly, we´re considering paying him just to finish it) and small brat leans through the window from behind for anything of value on the seats. But we´ve built this reflex when the backpack is on the floor and our legs go through the straps. But we notice the boy only when the playing is finished and he leaves. We wait quite long before the boat fills but then it´s only a short ride to the floating islands of Uros. The whole islands, houses, boats etc is built from reed. Tradition started with a tribe that wanted to escape bloodthirsty campaign of Incas. And hundreds of its people still live here. We like it a lot.
Cusco is very nice - colonial architecture built on Incas basements. And you can easily see how this place was literally bellybutton of the world. This brings along a lot of tourism - sellers, barkers, shoe polishers etc. All of them are absolutely persistent. Even when you tell them their merchandise is ugly and ignore them, they still stand next to you and wouldn´t go away. The remains of Incas walls are fascinating. Perfect working of big boulders - joints thin as paper haven´t moved for thousands years surviving many big earthquakes.
In the evening I go down with mixture of cold and some kind bowel disease. Thanks to recent landslides is the tourist industry suffering. So we managed to haggle the price for a room down from 90 to 30soles. Including TV and breakfast. TV is not usually our priority but now when I´m 3days in bed it´s very handy. Good that the Incas built 365 sacred places around Cusco and Jana has plenty to do.
Second last day of our stay here I get finally better and can join Jana for a tour.
We still hold a hope that we´ll see Macchu Picchu. One of the adventurous local guides offers to drive a jeep below MP. The guards leave at midnight, than we can cross the checkpoints, 4hrs of night trek up, sleep on MP and then have it all for ourselves. It sounds very promising and adventurous. But when we ask for more details everything is very vague and not even the leaving date is known. Unfortunately we don´t have time for this and leave for Arequipa. At least something to look forward for next time :) We already omitted Galapagos, Amazonian jungle and Angels fall...
Pics:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=55558&id=1344786025&l=d1a9382a3e
Saturday, 6 March 2010
3 Nej / 3 Top (Bolivia)
Dalsi cil - Potosi. Nejvysse polozene mesto sve velikosti sveta, prumerna nadmorska vyska 4067mnm. Cesta z Uyuni je jak jinak dost rozbita. Vyhledy jsou krasne, ale kdyz se najednou nahodou probereme z klimbani a zrovna jsme v zatacce bez krajnice nakloneni nad 400m srazem tak nam docela zatrne. Jake to prekvapeni, kdyz po 3h zacne asfalt - pozehnani. Potosi je krasne mesto, je videt, ze sveho casu bylo nejbohatsi mesto kontinentu. Jen pri prohlidce musime kazdou chvilku zastavit a poradne se nadychat nez se dame do dalsich schodu. Jak to ty horolezci delaji v 8000? Na dalsi den pripada exkurze do dolu, ktere zajistily mestu slavu a bohatstvi. Janca se rozhodne radeji dal zkoumat mesto a myslim, ze o dost prisla. Doly jsou porad v provozu, podminky se za ty stovky let krome dynamitu nezmenily a zazitek to je hodne silny a bezprostredni. Zaciname navstevou trhu, kde musime koupit pro horniky dary vymenou za to, ze muzeme do dolu. Je libo koka listu, 96% alkoholu nebo dynamit vcetne rozbusky? Vse je k mani za smesne ceny, bez jakekoliv regulace (dynamit s nami kupuje i 5tilety klucina). Pry (samozrejme) je to ilegalni, ale nikoho to nezajima...Pri prijezdu navstivime bunku jedne pracovni skupiny, kde si s nimi povidame o jejich zivote a praci. Pak jdeme do dolu, pri ceste potkavame horniky jak tlaci tunove voziky. V jedne odbocce se doslova proplazime metrovou dirou k hornikovi samotari. Zacal tezit ve 12 a ted je mu 58 (zadna sbijecka, kladivo a majzlik). Na mistni pomery hodne slusne, 55 je tu povazovano za vysoky vek. Kazdy rok v techto tezkych podminkach zemre kolem 40 horniku. Na zaver nam jeste pak venku predvadi pripravu dynamitu k odpalu. Po zapaleni knotu hodi vybusninu mezi nas a vyborne se bavi jak vsichni panikari. Knot je dlouhy na 3min a tak se par lidi vyfoti se zapalenym dynamitem v ruce nez ho chvilku pred koncem pruvodce vezme, sprintuje ke srazu a hodi dolu. Rana je to poradna.
La Paz - pro zmenu nejvyssi hlavni mesto sveta. Uzasne mesto, architektonicky dira, pouze cihlove domy bez omitky. Ale umisteni je genialni a dokonale neprakticke. Kdo by chtel zit v ulicich s prevysenim 500m (je mokro a misty na chodniku klouzeme dolu)? Pohled zeshora je paradni - kotel plny domu, aut a zvuku a nad tim 6465m vysoka Illimani. Dalsi co urcite stoji za zminku jsou mistni trhy. Pestrobarevna zmet lidi a stanku kde se da sehnat cokoliv. Ziva stenata, mrtvi suseni pstrosi a lamy, jidlo, zarovky, suvenyry... Zaciname se dostavat do smlouvani, 30% sleva z cehokoliv je prijatelna. A MHD? Tisice aut, kde spolujezdec vykrikuje cil cesty. Pro nemistni docela problem.
3ti nej - Jezero Titicaca, nejvyssi splavne jezero sveta. Urcite stoji za zminku cesta z La Pazu. 2h zdrzeni - v puli cesty voda strhla pilir mostu a tak je neprujezdny. Odvazlivci to projizdi rekou ve ktere ma misty problemy i bagr. Jeden mikrobus uvizne uprostred a skoro se preklopi. Pasazery musi bagr evakuovat na radlici. Nastesti nas ridic objevi nize po rece sirsi misto kde je voda melci a ne tak prudka. V Copacabane mame jediny plan, navstevu ostrova Isla del Luna. Misto kde se podle Inku zrodilo slunce. A vylet lodi i ostrov nezklamou. Terasy plne stromu a kvetin. Vecer jeste davame vystup na vyhlidku nad mesto odkud lze pozorovat zapad slunce nad jezerem. A tak mame v jeden den vystup na dve 4tisicovky, malem nas klepne. Byt mistni tak si otevru stanek s kyslikovyma bombama pro turisty :)
Zitra nas ceka jezero Titicaca z druhe strany. Puna v Peru. Ale jeste nemame vyhrano, kdyz na nas rano misto autobusu cekaji jen minivany vime, ze je neco spatne. A hle, na hranicich je blokada, takze nas vyhodi u blokady, pesky prejdeme hranici a na druhe strane bude cekat bus. Blokada je 5km od hranic. Vedro a 20kg na zadech...V pulce pochodu se podari sehnat zigula a starou toyotu na odvoz. Na me s Jancou a vysokym norem zbyde misto v kufru. Takze 9 lidi, 7 krosen a 8 malych batohu v 1 aute, slusny...
Fotky:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=54813&id=1344786025&l=4c94be5d48
Next stop - Potosi. Highest altitude town of its size in the world. Avg altitude of 4067m. The journey from Uyuni is on bad road (what else?). Great views, but when we wake up from our doze and are in the curve without edge looking down 400m the feeling cannot be described as pleasure. What a surprise when after 3hrs asphalt starts. Potosi is beautiful city, it shows that at it´s time it was the wealthiest place of the continent. Just when walking around we have to stop every minute to have a deep breath before tackling next steps. How do the mountaineers manage at 8000?
The mines excursion is very strong and imminent experience. Still in service, conditions except of a dynamite use same as hundreds yrs ago.
We start with a visit of miners market where we must buy presents for miners in exchange for access to the mines. Would you like some coca leaves, 96% alcohol or just a dynamite? Everything for insignificant prices, no regulation (together with us 5yr old boy buys dynamite). Of course it´s illegal, but nobody cares...In the mines we talk to the miners about their life and work. Very interesting. At one bend we crawl through a small hole to visit a solitaire miner. He started at 12, now he is 58 (no pneumatic drill, just hammer and chisel). Exceptional for local standards, 55 is a very high age. Every year the mines claim lives of 40 miners. To finish the excursion we are shown how to prepare dynamite for the blast. After putting it on fire the miners throw dynamite right among us and laugh their heads off as everybody panics. The wick is set to 3mins, plenty of time...
La Paz - for a change world highest altitude capital. Great city, no architecture just bricks without coat. But the location is genius and totally impractical. Who would want to live on the streets with superelevation of 500m (it´s rainy and sometimes we slip down)? View from the top - pot full of houses, cars and sounds and above that mt. Illimani with 6465m. Next thing worth mentioning are the markets. Are you looking for live puppies, dead dried up ostrich or lama, food or just souvenirs? We get into the haggling, 30% off is decent progress. And public transport? Thousands of minivans where co-driver hangs out from the window and shouts the name of final destination. Quite tough to get around if you are not local.
3rd top - lake Titicaca, world´s highest navigable lake. But a mention of journey from La Paz must be made. A short delay - half way one of the bridge columns got torn down by water and bridge is closed. Brave ones cross the river where even excavator has a problems. One of the minibuses gets stuck in the middle and starts turning over. Passangers must be evacuated on the plough iron. Fortunately our driver finds a spot lower on the river where it´s wider and not so deep and we can cross.
In Copacabana we have just one plan - visit island Isla del Luna. Place where according to Incas sun was born - great trip where I get sunburned (what did I expect?). In the evening we manage to climb to the viewpoint where sunset over the lake is particularly nice. That is 2 4000m peaks in one day, we nearly collapse. If I were local I would open a rental shop with oxygen bombs :)
Tomorrow we´ll see lake Titicaca from the other side - Peruvian. But it wouldn´t be Bolivia if everything went smoothly. There is a blockade on the border so the minivans will drop us there and we´ll have to walk across the border and the bus will wait for us on the other side. Blockade is 5km far from border. It is quite hot and 20kg on the back doesn´t help. Half way there we manage to get a lift with a local car. The only space left for me, Jana and tall Norwegian guy is in the boot. So 9 people, 7 big backpacks and 8 small ones in one car, quite funny, good it´s just a short ride...
Pictures:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=54813&id=1344786025&l=4c94be5d48
La Paz - pro zmenu nejvyssi hlavni mesto sveta. Uzasne mesto, architektonicky dira, pouze cihlove domy bez omitky. Ale umisteni je genialni a dokonale neprakticke. Kdo by chtel zit v ulicich s prevysenim 500m (je mokro a misty na chodniku klouzeme dolu)? Pohled zeshora je paradni - kotel plny domu, aut a zvuku a nad tim 6465m vysoka Illimani. Dalsi co urcite stoji za zminku jsou mistni trhy. Pestrobarevna zmet lidi a stanku kde se da sehnat cokoliv. Ziva stenata, mrtvi suseni pstrosi a lamy, jidlo, zarovky, suvenyry... Zaciname se dostavat do smlouvani, 30% sleva z cehokoliv je prijatelna. A MHD? Tisice aut, kde spolujezdec vykrikuje cil cesty. Pro nemistni docela problem.
3ti nej - Jezero Titicaca, nejvyssi splavne jezero sveta. Urcite stoji za zminku cesta z La Pazu. 2h zdrzeni - v puli cesty voda strhla pilir mostu a tak je neprujezdny. Odvazlivci to projizdi rekou ve ktere ma misty problemy i bagr. Jeden mikrobus uvizne uprostred a skoro se preklopi. Pasazery musi bagr evakuovat na radlici. Nastesti nas ridic objevi nize po rece sirsi misto kde je voda melci a ne tak prudka. V Copacabane mame jediny plan, navstevu ostrova Isla del Luna. Misto kde se podle Inku zrodilo slunce. A vylet lodi i ostrov nezklamou. Terasy plne stromu a kvetin. Vecer jeste davame vystup na vyhlidku nad mesto odkud lze pozorovat zapad slunce nad jezerem. A tak mame v jeden den vystup na dve 4tisicovky, malem nas klepne. Byt mistni tak si otevru stanek s kyslikovyma bombama pro turisty :)
Zitra nas ceka jezero Titicaca z druhe strany. Puna v Peru. Ale jeste nemame vyhrano, kdyz na nas rano misto autobusu cekaji jen minivany vime, ze je neco spatne. A hle, na hranicich je blokada, takze nas vyhodi u blokady, pesky prejdeme hranici a na druhe strane bude cekat bus. Blokada je 5km od hranic. Vedro a 20kg na zadech...V pulce pochodu se podari sehnat zigula a starou toyotu na odvoz. Na me s Jancou a vysokym norem zbyde misto v kufru. Takze 9 lidi, 7 krosen a 8 malych batohu v 1 aute, slusny...
Fotky:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=54813&id=1344786025&l=4c94be5d48
Next stop - Potosi. Highest altitude town of its size in the world. Avg altitude of 4067m. The journey from Uyuni is on bad road (what else?). Great views, but when we wake up from our doze and are in the curve without edge looking down 400m the feeling cannot be described as pleasure. What a surprise when after 3hrs asphalt starts. Potosi is beautiful city, it shows that at it´s time it was the wealthiest place of the continent. Just when walking around we have to stop every minute to have a deep breath before tackling next steps. How do the mountaineers manage at 8000?
The mines excursion is very strong and imminent experience. Still in service, conditions except of a dynamite use same as hundreds yrs ago.
We start with a visit of miners market where we must buy presents for miners in exchange for access to the mines. Would you like some coca leaves, 96% alcohol or just a dynamite? Everything for insignificant prices, no regulation (together with us 5yr old boy buys dynamite). Of course it´s illegal, but nobody cares...In the mines we talk to the miners about their life and work. Very interesting. At one bend we crawl through a small hole to visit a solitaire miner. He started at 12, now he is 58 (no pneumatic drill, just hammer and chisel). Exceptional for local standards, 55 is a very high age. Every year the mines claim lives of 40 miners. To finish the excursion we are shown how to prepare dynamite for the blast. After putting it on fire the miners throw dynamite right among us and laugh their heads off as everybody panics. The wick is set to 3mins, plenty of time...
La Paz - for a change world highest altitude capital. Great city, no architecture just bricks without coat. But the location is genius and totally impractical. Who would want to live on the streets with superelevation of 500m (it´s rainy and sometimes we slip down)? View from the top - pot full of houses, cars and sounds and above that mt. Illimani with 6465m. Next thing worth mentioning are the markets. Are you looking for live puppies, dead dried up ostrich or lama, food or just souvenirs? We get into the haggling, 30% off is decent progress. And public transport? Thousands of minivans where co-driver hangs out from the window and shouts the name of final destination. Quite tough to get around if you are not local.
3rd top - lake Titicaca, world´s highest navigable lake. But a mention of journey from La Paz must be made. A short delay - half way one of the bridge columns got torn down by water and bridge is closed. Brave ones cross the river where even excavator has a problems. One of the minibuses gets stuck in the middle and starts turning over. Passangers must be evacuated on the plough iron. Fortunately our driver finds a spot lower on the river where it´s wider and not so deep and we can cross.
In Copacabana we have just one plan - visit island Isla del Luna. Place where according to Incas sun was born - great trip where I get sunburned (what did I expect?). In the evening we manage to climb to the viewpoint where sunset over the lake is particularly nice. That is 2 4000m peaks in one day, we nearly collapse. If I were local I would open a rental shop with oxygen bombs :)
Tomorrow we´ll see lake Titicaca from the other side - Peruvian. But it wouldn´t be Bolivia if everything went smoothly. There is a blockade on the border so the minivans will drop us there and we´ll have to walk across the border and the bus will wait for us on the other side. Blockade is 5km far from border. It is quite hot and 20kg on the back doesn´t help. Half way there we manage to get a lift with a local car. The only space left for me, Jana and tall Norwegian guy is in the boot. So 9 people, 7 big backpacks and 8 small ones in one car, quite funny, good it´s just a short ride...
Pictures:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=54813&id=1344786025&l=4c94be5d48
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