.JPG)
Po snidani jsme nalozeni na korbu jeepu a odvezeni k privozu. Veletok Mekong je v teto casti sveta jen o malo vetsi nez Labe. Cinane svou prehradou zadrzuji vetsinu vody a na Laos tak moc nezbyva. Byrokracie je na hranicich slusna, ale imigracni urednik se vic nez o platne vizum zajima o 1 dolar za 'prescas' protoze je nedele. Misto lodi se nas pruvodce snazi za extra penize premluvit na cestu minibusem misto lodi, je to pry dlouhe, nepohodlne, nebezpecne, atd. Kecy jako obvykle, minibus je nejspis jeho. Je mi trochu lito anglicanek co evidentne cestuji jen chvilku a skoci mu na to, vzdyt hlavne kvuli plavbe po Mekongu jsme prave tady. Reka je krasna a vlni se mezi strmymi nepravidelnymi kopci, vysoke brehy tvori hladky ostry cerny kamen (nejspise grafit, bridlice). Po 6h plavby dorazime do Pakbeng. Jedna spinava ulice plna ubytovani. Zariskovali jsme a pokoj zaplatili drive nez jsme ho videli. Ale je celkem ok, nemenene povleceni, zasuvku se spatnym kontaktem, netekouci vodu a obsluhu co se snazi pri placeni vratit min nez ma (1Kc je skoro 500 Laoskych kipu, ke vsemu ma pro nas zname cislice jen v jedinem rohu na jedne strane a malym pismem) je ani neresime. Proste typicke misto pro turisty kde neni jina alternativa. Toto je jedina vetsi vesnice na ceste do Luang Prabang, kompletne obklopena dzungli a pravdepodobne jedina se silnici do vnitrozemi. Dalsi den plavba trva 9h a probiha vicemene podobne, krajina je jeste divocejsi a opustenejsi, sem tam vidime vesnici na brehu a u ni na bidlech z bambusu site rybaru. V jednu chvili na lod pristoupi skupina mistnich se 3mi motorkami a lod je evidentne pretizena a naklani se na jednu stranu. Ale asi vi co delaji, navecer dorazime do byvaleho hlavniho mesta a horskeho kralovstvi Luang Prabang. Krasne historicke mesto s pohodovou atmosferou. A meli jsme pravdu kdyz jsme cekali uplne jiny pristup lidi, usmevavi a pratelsti i kdyz zrovna nemavate penezi. Nocni trh je maly zazrak, zadny hluk, davy a nuceni do koupe. Hromady zbozi a smlouvani je zde velmi jednoduche - malokdy zaplatime vice nez 50% puvodni ceny. Hodne se nam libi sachy vytesane vcetne krabice z kamene, ale ta vaha... Pri koupi obrazu je nam autorky diky nasi neoblomnosti docela lito. Neni moc dobry obchodnik a tak misto smlouvani sympaticka holcina zadoni tenkym hlasem: "Prosim sire, dejte mi trochu vic. Prosim." Po kazdem uspesnem obchode prodavajici vezmou trzbu a poklepou s ni vystavene zbozi - lucky, lucky (stesti, stesti).
Mirime dale na jih do cestovateli opevovaneho a nechvalne znameho Vang Viang. Auto sice nema slibenou klimatizaci, ale da se to vydrzet. Projizdime strme serpentyny nahoru a dolu, po strane je sem tam na svahu roztahla vesnicka. Bambusove chatrce na kulech - tady je videt, ze Laos je opravdu chudy. Ze by v tom castecne mely prsty sovetske vlajky vyvesene u kazde statni budovy?
Krajina je uzasna a laka k turam na kole nebo pesky. Vedro bohuzel neni jedina prekazka. Kdyz vidime jak jsou kopce strme a vse je nedostupne vubec se nedivime, ze jak francouzi tak americane tu proti Vietcongu nemeli sanci. Sem se bez silnice nedostane ani tank a tak po pechote zbyva jedina moznost - kobercove nalety. Behem valky USA shodili na Laos vice bomb (260mil) nez bylo pouzito v cele II svetove valce. 80mil nevybuchlo a zanechaly tak Laosu neprijemne dedictvi. Mimo hlavni tahy se na toaletu nedoporucuje chodit za krajnici silnice...
Vang Vieng je umele turisticke mestecko o 3 ulicich plnych jen hotelu a restauraci. Turistu je tu vic nez mistnich, ceny vysoke a ani nema cenu smlouvat, kdyz ne my nekdo jiny si to stejne koupi. Hlavni atrakci ktera zivi pres 1500lidi je reka v uzkem korytu pod vertikalnimi stenami. Nic zvlastniho, to maji i jinde. Ale co nemaji je atraktivita krajiny spojena s party a adrenalinem. Brehy po obou stranach lemuji bary a diskoteky. Kazdy dostane dusi od traktoru a plavi se dolu, kdyz ma chut na pivo, zamava a z baru mu hodi lano. Vsude ke kazdemu zakoupenemu napoji je zdarma panak...Vetsina baru ma pak jeste v nabidce zdarma nejaky ten adrenalin. Na prvni zastavce jsem sel na houpacku - 6-7m vysoka vez stlucena z prken, docela se houpe a kdyby me lide z baru nevytleskali tak se nahore nejspis otocim a misto zhoupnuti a skoku slezu. Nakonec se ukaze, ze nejtezsi cast je stat nahore na tresouci se plosince (ale salto pozadu jako mistni kluci opravdu nevystrihnu). Pak jeste jdeme na obri betonovou vykachlikovanou klouzacku. Usti nad rekou ve vysce 5m a kdyz to clovek necha poradne rozjet da se letet i 20m do dalky (hlavne nehodit placaka). Mozna by nekoho jeste mohlo zajimat, ze vetsina baru ma krome piva v nabidce opium, hasis, marihuanu a houbicky. Cele to zni jako silenost, ale kdyz se clovek nerozstrili a neriskuje pak zivot je to sranda kde potkate spoustu novych lidi a netradicne se pokochate horami kolem.
Hlavni mesto Vientiane je takova velka vesnice ve ktere neni nic moc co by stalo za zminku. Jak se jiz mnohokrat osvedcilo, obejdeme vice ubytovani a hned vedle sebe jsou dira s plisni na zdech a designovy hotel s klimatizaci a evropskou TV za stejnou cenu. Jinak doporucujeme pujcit skutr a jet 27km za mesto do Wat Xiang Khouan - mapa netreba, domorodci poradi klidne i za jizdy. Mistni umelec venoval zivot dilu kdy vytvoril park plny soch zobrazujici asijskou mytologii. Lezici budha ma urcite pres 50m na delku.
Presun na jih do Pakxe je nocnim busem, ale ne ledajakym. Ohromny dvouposchodovy bus je vevnitr uplne vybourany a zaplneny podomacku svarenymi palandami. V evrope by bezpecnostnimi testy asi neprosel, ale zde - co to je bezpecnost? Sice moc nespim, protoze palanda nema zabrany a v zatacce bych se mohl proletet 2m dolu, ale i tak je 10h jizda pohodlna.
V Pakxe se neplanujeme zdrzet a je cas po mestech take vyzkouset venkov. Chceme po ridici tuk tuku aby nas odvezl na autobusak odkud pojedeme do Champasaku. Ale o nicem nevi, tak nas vyhodi na centralnim trhu odkud muzeme jet ve vetsim tuktuku sdilenym s mistnimi. Pri cekani mame moznost pozorovat ranni srumec kolem - motorku nalozenou 3mi obrovskymi kosi durianu, holku na motorce se spoustou kachen uvazanych na riditkach, pani co se vysmrka zevnitr do trika co ma na sobe (pozdeji jeste do sukne), chlapka co jede na motorce a za sebou tahne kolecko nalozene cihlami, ...
Nase jizda je vlastne takova okruzni jizda. Ridic ruzne po meste naklada objednavky pro jednotlive vesnice, takze nakonec spolecne s nami sedi pytle ryze, mouky, fosny a ruzne tasky. A tak jak vse postupne vyklada mame moznost videt pravy venkov. Sice nam tech 40km zabralo pul dne, ale zazitek vyborny.
Z Champasaku jedeme do Nakasang. Prasna ulice na brehu 4000 ostrovu Mekongu (zde je reka uz velka) je plna obchudku a cele je to vlastne jedna velka skladka. Nejblizsi bus do Kambodzi jede az zitra rano, zustavat se nam tu nechce a tak se rozhodneme prekrocit hranice opet ve stylu. Domluvime 2 motorky (tuktuk zde neni), krosna vepredu, pak ridic a za nim my s malym batohem. Behem 5ti min jizdy na jilove ceste jsme od hlavy k pate pokryti prachem. Zastavime na fotku u nejvetsich vodopadu Mekongu a po 10ti km z motorek slezeme u zavory mezi Laosem a Kambodzou. (kdo uz videl foto na facebooku, tak link byl updatovan)
Fotky:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=62492&id=1344786025&l=1d49f90ff6
One of the worlds biggest rivers Mekong is just a normal medium sized river. Chinese are holding most of the water with their dams and so Laos is left with water equal to couple Liffey rivers. Bureaucracy on the border is highly developed but more than our visas it's 1USD (for Sunday 'overtime') that interests the immigration officers.
The guide tries to persuade us to take a minibus for extra money instead of the boat. It's long, uncomfortable, dangerous, ... Blabbing as usual, minibus is probably his private business, boating down the Mekong that's why we are here! I feel a bit sorry for couple of English girls that fall for it. It's obvious they only started their travels recently and are not familiar with the tricks. River is beautiful, it undulates below irregular sheer hills, banks are made of sharp graphite rock. In 6hrs we arrive to Pakbeng. One dirty street full of accommodation. We took a risk and paid for a room before seeing it. But it's quite ok, unchanged sheets, plug out of order and no water are minor problems we learned to ignore in places like this. Just another typical tourist place where no other alternative is available. This is the only bigger village on the way to Luang Prabang, completely surrounded by jungle and probably the only one with a road connection to inland. Staff in the restaurants are trying to return less than they are supposed to - 1EUR equals to nearly 15000 Laos Kip and the only Arabic numerals are in a small print and just in one corner.
Next day the cruise takes 9hrs, landscape is more wild and desolate. From time to time we see a village with bamboo poles for fishing nets. At one point of the journey we take on board more local passengers bringing with them 3 motorbikes. The boat is evidently overloaded and inclines to the left side. But captain probably knows what he's doing, later in the afternoon we safely arrive to former capital and mountain kingdom Luang Prabang. Beautiful historical town with friendly and laid back atmosphere. And we were right when we expected better attitude from the locals - smiling and friendly even when you're not waving with money. Night market is a little wonder, no noise, crowds or forcing to buy. Good range of hand made goods and haggling is very easy even for beginners - we rarely pay more than 50% of starting price. We like a lot big chess set carved out of stone including the box, however the weight... Due to our unyieldingness we feel sorry for an artist selling her pictures. She is not a very good tradesman and instead of haggling begs with tiny voice: "Please sir give me more, please". After every successful deal the pitchers take the money and pat with it all the wares - lucky, lucky.
We head further south to (in)famous Vang Viang. Car doesn't have the promised AC but it's bearable. We go through steep windy roads up and down. Sometimes we pass a village - bamboo huts on poles. Here we can see that Laos is really very poor. Maybe something to do with Soviet Union flags hanging everywhere on official buildings?
Landscape is breathtaking and lures to be hiked or biked. Big heat is unfortunately not the only obstruction. Hills are very steep and everything is inaccessible - no wonder both French and US stood no chances against Vietcong. Without a road not even a tank can reach these villages and so the only other option after infantry is carpet bombing. During to war USA dropped on Laos more bombs (260mil) than was used in whole WWII. 80mil never exploded and left to Laos deadly legacy. In rural areas it is strongly not recommended to go for a toilet away from the road...
Vang Vieng is artificial tourist town made of 3 streets full of hotels and restaurants. There is more white people than locals. Main attraction that supports more than 1500people is a river in narrow bed below the hills. Nothing special you can see this elsewhere. But what you won't see elsewhere is the nature attractiveness joined with parties and bit of adrenalin. Banks on both sides are flanked with bars. Everybody gets a tractor inner tube and floats down the river, when you feel like having a beer just lift your hand and somebody from the bar will throw you a rope. With every purchased drink is a free shot...Most of the bars also have an adrenalin attraction attached to it. I tried a big swing - 6-7m high tower made of scrap pallets - it's shaking and I don't feel very secure, if the people down in the bar didn't cheer me up I'd probably never jumped. In the end it's really cool I just don't finish it off with a back flip like local kids. Then we try huge concrete slide with tiled surface. It vents 5m above the surface and when you let go and gain good speed it's no problem to fly 20m far (just don't land on your back). Someone might be interested in a special menu of every bar - opium, weed and psychedelic mushrooms.
The whole thing looks and is crazy but if one is a bit conscious and doesn't risk own life it's great fun where you can meet lot of new people and admire mountains around.
Capital Vientiane is just a big village where is not much to see. It pays off to walk around when looking for a room. Very often you'll find a dump next to a new hotel with AC and cable TV for the same price. In the town we recommend to rent a motorbike and go to Wat Xiang Khouan, 27km out of town. No map is required, locals will point you in the right direction (sometimes while driving). Local artist devoted his life to creation of this park. It's full of statues from Asian mythology. Sleeping Buddha is at least 50m long.
Transfer to Pakxe is via night bus, but it's not an ordinary bus. Big doubledecker is inside completely pulled down and filled with homemade bunks. It couldn't pass any safety tests, but over here - safety is not very common word. Aware of the gap next to me and possible flight in one of the bends, I don't get much sleep but it's much more comfortable 10hrs than sitting in a seat.
We don't plan to stay in Pakxe as it's time to try some countryside. We ask tuktuk driver for a bus station that services village Champasak. He doesn't have a clue so drops us at the central market where we can get a shared tuktuk. During our waiting we get an opportunity to watch morning buzzing - motorbike carrying 3 huge baskets full of durians, girl with 2 flocks of duck hanging from handles of her motorbike, lady that blows her nose inside the tshirt she is wearing (later on it's skirt), and lots more. Our ride is actually a sight-seeing trip. Driver has to pick up various stuff from around the town so we end up siting surrounded by various bags, sacks of rice and flour and wooden planks. And as everything gets dropped at the villages we get to see real rural Laos. The 40km took us half a day but priceless experience.
From Champasak we head to Nakasang. Dusty road on the bank of 4000 islands of Mekong (the river is really big over here) is full of stalls and all of it looks like a big dump. Next bus to Cambodia leaves tomorrow morning, we don't want to stay so decide to cross the border again in style. We hire 2 motorbikes (no tuktuks here), big backpack in the front, then driver, then us with with small backpacks. In 5mins we are completely covered in dust. We even manage to stop to take a picture of biggest Mekong's waterfalls and just another 10km and we are at the gate between Laos and Cambodia. (for those who saw pictures on Facebook already - some new were added)
Pictures:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=62492&id=1344786025&l=1d49f90ff6
Monday, 24 May 2010
Tuesday, 18 May 2010
Thajsko / Thailand
Let ze Singapuru do Thajska je kratky, jen 2h. Imigrace to same - 2h opruzu. Rovnice Thajsko zeme tisice usmevu zde rozhodne neplati. Uniforma dela z milych thajcu autoritativni vycpane panaky kteri se ani neobtezuji pozdravit. Venku je vedro vetsi nez v Singapuru, uz vime jak se citi cokoladove figurky kdyz je clovek necha v teple. Obcanske nepokoje v Bangkoku porad jeste trvaji a tak rovnou jedeme vlakem na sever do Ayutthaya. Prijedeme v noci a tak vezmeme prvni ubytovani co nam prijde pod ruku. Venku je v pulnoci 31st a v pokoji od celodenniho paraku jeste vice. Vubec nespime a rano vstaneme uplne dehydrovani, kdyz se k tomu prida 42.5st pres den neni se co divit, ze nemame sanci doplnit tekutiny rychleji nez je vylucujeme. Janca to odnese upalem, zvraci a nevypada vubec dobre, ja preziju jen s poradnou bolesti hlavy. Nastesti hned rano zmenime hotel a mame pokoj s klimatizaci na ktere muzeme chladit zabaly pro Jancu, zustat v predchozim ubytovani tak by to bylo na nemocnici. Pozdeji se na predpovedi dozvidame, ze pro telo je ve skutecnosti 47! pocitovych stupnu. Na tohle opravdu nejsme delani.
Zmenime plan a od byvaleho hlavniho mesta Sukhothai pamatky obchazime mezi 5-10 rano, pres poledne se presouvame v klimatizovanych autobusech a vecer prochazime mesta.
Ayutthaya nas i pres vedro nadchla. Ruiny obrovskych budhistickych komplexu vypadaji jeste lepe nez kdyby byly udrzovane. Takova socha budhy zarostla ve strome nebo pagoda ze ktere roste strom nahore a je obalena koreny musi zapusobit i na toho nejvetsiho neromantika. V Sukhothaii jsme si misto kola pujcili skutr (zadny ridicak netreba a helmu pry nemusime kdyz uz je po 6 a policajti jsou uz doma) takze narozdil od predchoziho mesta je objizdeni pamatek prijemne. Ruiiny byvaleho palace zastihneme za vychodu slunce, nikde nikdo a 70 ctverecnich kilometru pamatek tak mame jen pro sebe. Co si vic prat?
Dalsi mesto kde stravime par dni je Chiang Mai. A kde jinde nez v Thajsku zajit na masaz? Hodinu se nechame valcovat ve skole slepych maseru. Nejdrive mam pochyby, obzvlast kdyz me ma mit na starost asi 10-12lety kluk, ale behem minuty neni o cem debatovat. Vi presne kam a jak sahnout a tak me chvilema poradne muci, za tu hodinu krome obliceje nevynechaji jediny sval. Vecer jedeme na nocni safari. Zoo je bezna, ale vlacek mezi zviraty se nam libi, obzvlast kdyz se nechaji krmit primo z ruky (bileho tygra jsme nezkouseli, ale pohladit si zirafu neodmitneme). Dalsi den je nabity program. Dopoledne jizda na slonovi. Oproti konovi je to poradna vyska. Nase slonice sebou jeste vede 1.5rocni slune a oba se kazdou chvilku zastavi a chteji po nas banany. 2 plne igelitky co jsme koupili zmizi behem par minut. Po jizde na slonovi jdeme na kratky trek dzungli do vesnice horskeho kmenu. Jeste zastavime u vodopadu na koupani - prvni studena voda naseho pobytu krasne osvezi. Pote nas na rozpalene korbe auta kde se neda niceho ani dotknout prevezou na obed. Treti cast dne zakoncime plavenim po rece na bambusovych vorech. Je to ok, ale pro kohokoliv kdo nekdy jel vodu nic zvlastniho. Vecer jdeme na budhisticky festival. Nekolik tisic lidi si zde zvysuje karmu pri ruznych ritualech vevnitr i venku chramu. Vse je obklopeno nejruznejsimi stanky s jidlem nabizejici lakadla ve forme vafli az po smazene kobylky a svaby. Zajimave a moc pekne, vsech 5smyslu si prijde na sve.
Po 3 dnech jedeme dale na sever smerem k hranicim s Laosem. Za zminku urcite stoji chram Wat Rong Koom. Mistni umelec venoval cely zivot tomuto dilu - bily chram se spoustou detailu venovane asijske mytologii, vse ozdobene malymi zrcatky. Bohuzel jsme se rozhodli prekrocit hranice do Laosu v organizovane tour a tak zde nestravime tolik casu kolik bych si pral. Take se zaciname uvedomovat, ze jsme tenhle vylet preplatili tak 3x. Vidina pomoci s vyrizovanim viz a nabidka komfortu klimatizace po cele 3dny nam trochu zatemnila mozek. Rozhodne je videt, ze usmevy se v Thajsku opravdu nesetri, hlavne kdyz je spravne podporite nejlepe americkymi dolary. Laos slibuje podstatne mene turismu a diky tomu vice uprimnosti.
Fotky:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=62416&id=1344786025&l=e66b988344
Flight from Singapore to Thailand is short, only 2hrs. Immigration takes the same time - 2hrs of hassle. Equation Thailand land of thousands smiles definitely doesn't apply here. Uniform turns otherwise nice people into authoritative dummies that don't even know the hello word. Once through we are hit with an even worse heatwave than in Singapore. And we get to know the feelings of chocolate bar left behind the window in a hot summer.
Civil unrests in Bangkok are still going on so we decide to head for north straight away. We reach Ayutthaya in the night and take the first accommodation we find. Its midnight and outside is 31degrees and inside in our room even more. We don't sleep at all and in the morning get up totally dehydrated. If you add 42.5degrees through the day no wonder we are unable to replenish the fluid loss. Jana is down with heat stroke, vomits and doesn't look well at all. I survive only with a severe headache.
Fortunately first thing in the morning we change the hotel and have a room with AC, so can cool Jana down. If we stayed in previous hotel I'd say hospital would be the only option left. Later on when checking forecast we find out that for body the realfeel temperature is 47! European bodies are not made to withstand this..
We change our daily plans and from Sukhothai do the sightseeing between 5-10AM, then at midday move in AC buses and in the evening check out the towns.
Despite the heat Ayutthaya really impressed us. Ruins of huge Buddhist complexes look better than they probably did when they were new. Even the biggest non-romantic person must be impressed by a statue of Buddha ingrown in a tree or a pagoda with a tree on the top with roots embracing the building.
In Sukhothai we rented a scooter (no driving licence or experience necessary and helmet not required after 6 when all the policemen are finished for the day) so the sightseeing is quite pleasant. We catch ruins of former palace bathing in sunrise, nowhere nobody, 70sq km just for ourselves. What more to wish for?
Another town where we spend couple days is Chiang Mai. And where else to go for a traditional massage than to the school of blind masseurs? In the evening we go for a night safari. Zoo is nothing special, but the train among all the animals is great. We get to feed the animals from hand (didn't try it with white tiger but giraffes are very charming).
Next day is a busy day. In the morning elephant ride. It's quite high. Our elephant takes with her it's 1.5yr old baby and both of them stop every minute to get some fuel (bananas). 2 full bags we brought are gone in a blink. After the ride follows a short trek in jungle to one of the hill tribes + swimming under a waterfall - first cold water in Thailand is very refreshing. We finish the day floating down a river on bamboo raft. After we get back from the trip we decide to visit local Buddhist festival. Thousands of people increase their karma doing various rituals. The temple is surrounded by food stalls offering baits in all forms - from hot waffles to deep fried grasshoppers and cockroaches. Very interesting and enlightening night, all 5senses have a feast.
In 3 days we continue further north towards border with Laos. Temple Wat Rong Koom is definitely worth mentioning. Local artist devoted his life to creating this art temple. It's all white with huge amount of details from Asian mythology, all decorated with small mirrors. Pity we decided to cross the border with Laos on organized tour and don't have as much time I'd like to spend here. We also start to realize that we overpaid this trip at least 3x. Vision of visa help and comfort of AC bus for whole 3days dimmed out our judgement. Thai people spare no smiles, especially if you support it by US dollars...Laos promises less tourists and thanks to that more sincerity.
Pictures:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=62416&id=1344786025&l=e66b988344
Zmenime plan a od byvaleho hlavniho mesta Sukhothai pamatky obchazime mezi 5-10 rano, pres poledne se presouvame v klimatizovanych autobusech a vecer prochazime mesta.
Ayutthaya nas i pres vedro nadchla. Ruiny obrovskych budhistickych komplexu vypadaji jeste lepe nez kdyby byly udrzovane. Takova socha budhy zarostla ve strome nebo pagoda ze ktere roste strom nahore a je obalena koreny musi zapusobit i na toho nejvetsiho neromantika. V Sukhothaii jsme si misto kola pujcili skutr (zadny ridicak netreba a helmu pry nemusime kdyz uz je po 6 a policajti jsou uz doma) takze narozdil od predchoziho mesta je objizdeni pamatek prijemne. Ruiiny byvaleho palace zastihneme za vychodu slunce, nikde nikdo a 70 ctverecnich kilometru pamatek tak mame jen pro sebe. Co si vic prat?
Dalsi mesto kde stravime par dni je Chiang Mai. A kde jinde nez v Thajsku zajit na masaz? Hodinu se nechame valcovat ve skole slepych maseru. Nejdrive mam pochyby, obzvlast kdyz me ma mit na starost asi 10-12lety kluk, ale behem minuty neni o cem debatovat. Vi presne kam a jak sahnout a tak me chvilema poradne muci, za tu hodinu krome obliceje nevynechaji jediny sval. Vecer jedeme na nocni safari. Zoo je bezna, ale vlacek mezi zviraty se nam libi, obzvlast kdyz se nechaji krmit primo z ruky (bileho tygra jsme nezkouseli, ale pohladit si zirafu neodmitneme). Dalsi den je nabity program. Dopoledne jizda na slonovi. Oproti konovi je to poradna vyska. Nase slonice sebou jeste vede 1.5rocni slune a oba se kazdou chvilku zastavi a chteji po nas banany. 2 plne igelitky co jsme koupili zmizi behem par minut. Po jizde na slonovi jdeme na kratky trek dzungli do vesnice horskeho kmenu. Jeste zastavime u vodopadu na koupani - prvni studena voda naseho pobytu krasne osvezi. Pote nas na rozpalene korbe auta kde se neda niceho ani dotknout prevezou na obed. Treti cast dne zakoncime plavenim po rece na bambusovych vorech. Je to ok, ale pro kohokoliv kdo nekdy jel vodu nic zvlastniho. Vecer jdeme na budhisticky festival. Nekolik tisic lidi si zde zvysuje karmu pri ruznych ritualech vevnitr i venku chramu. Vse je obklopeno nejruznejsimi stanky s jidlem nabizejici lakadla ve forme vafli az po smazene kobylky a svaby. Zajimave a moc pekne, vsech 5smyslu si prijde na sve.
Po 3 dnech jedeme dale na sever smerem k hranicim s Laosem. Za zminku urcite stoji chram Wat Rong Koom. Mistni umelec venoval cely zivot tomuto dilu - bily chram se spoustou detailu venovane asijske mytologii, vse ozdobene malymi zrcatky. Bohuzel jsme se rozhodli prekrocit hranice do Laosu v organizovane tour a tak zde nestravime tolik casu kolik bych si pral. Take se zaciname uvedomovat, ze jsme tenhle vylet preplatili tak 3x. Vidina pomoci s vyrizovanim viz a nabidka komfortu klimatizace po cele 3dny nam trochu zatemnila mozek. Rozhodne je videt, ze usmevy se v Thajsku opravdu nesetri, hlavne kdyz je spravne podporite nejlepe americkymi dolary. Laos slibuje podstatne mene turismu a diky tomu vice uprimnosti.
Fotky:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=62416&id=1344786025&l=e66b988344
Flight from Singapore to Thailand is short, only 2hrs. Immigration takes the same time - 2hrs of hassle. Equation Thailand land of thousands smiles definitely doesn't apply here. Uniform turns otherwise nice people into authoritative dummies that don't even know the hello word. Once through we are hit with an even worse heatwave than in Singapore. And we get to know the feelings of chocolate bar left behind the window in a hot summer.
Civil unrests in Bangkok are still going on so we decide to head for north straight away. We reach Ayutthaya in the night and take the first accommodation we find. Its midnight and outside is 31degrees and inside in our room even more. We don't sleep at all and in the morning get up totally dehydrated. If you add 42.5degrees through the day no wonder we are unable to replenish the fluid loss. Jana is down with heat stroke, vomits and doesn't look well at all. I survive only with a severe headache.
Fortunately first thing in the morning we change the hotel and have a room with AC, so can cool Jana down. If we stayed in previous hotel I'd say hospital would be the only option left. Later on when checking forecast we find out that for body the realfeel temperature is 47! European bodies are not made to withstand this..
We change our daily plans and from Sukhothai do the sightseeing between 5-10AM, then at midday move in AC buses and in the evening check out the towns.
Despite the heat Ayutthaya really impressed us. Ruins of huge Buddhist complexes look better than they probably did when they were new. Even the biggest non-romantic person must be impressed by a statue of Buddha ingrown in a tree or a pagoda with a tree on the top with roots embracing the building.
In Sukhothai we rented a scooter (no driving licence or experience necessary and helmet not required after 6 when all the policemen are finished for the day) so the sightseeing is quite pleasant. We catch ruins of former palace bathing in sunrise, nowhere nobody, 70sq km just for ourselves. What more to wish for?
Another town where we spend couple days is Chiang Mai. And where else to go for a traditional massage than to the school of blind masseurs? In the evening we go for a night safari. Zoo is nothing special, but the train among all the animals is great. We get to feed the animals from hand (didn't try it with white tiger but giraffes are very charming).
Next day is a busy day. In the morning elephant ride. It's quite high. Our elephant takes with her it's 1.5yr old baby and both of them stop every minute to get some fuel (bananas). 2 full bags we brought are gone in a blink. After the ride follows a short trek in jungle to one of the hill tribes + swimming under a waterfall - first cold water in Thailand is very refreshing. We finish the day floating down a river on bamboo raft. After we get back from the trip we decide to visit local Buddhist festival. Thousands of people increase their karma doing various rituals. The temple is surrounded by food stalls offering baits in all forms - from hot waffles to deep fried grasshoppers and cockroaches. Very interesting and enlightening night, all 5senses have a feast.
In 3 days we continue further north towards border with Laos. Temple Wat Rong Koom is definitely worth mentioning. Local artist devoted his life to creating this art temple. It's all white with huge amount of details from Asian mythology, all decorated with small mirrors. Pity we decided to cross the border with Laos on organized tour and don't have as much time I'd like to spend here. We also start to realize that we overpaid this trip at least 3x. Vision of visa help and comfort of AC bus for whole 3days dimmed out our judgement. Thai people spare no smiles, especially if you support it by US dollars...Laos promises less tourists and thanks to that more sincerity.
Pictures:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=62416&id=1344786025&l=e66b988344
Monday, 10 May 2010
Sydney - Singapore
Znovu na cas vymenime rozvojovy svet za rozvinuty. V Sydney je krasny podzim, teploty kolem 25stupnu a sem tam oblacnost. Hned prvni vecer nas po praci vyzvedne Paul, dalsi kamarad z Irska co jsme delsi dobu nevideli. Je v Sydney uz 2roky a moc spokojeny. Sveze nas kolem vecerniho centra a muzeme jit na veceri a nad par pivy probrat vsechny dulezite udalosti poslednich 2 let.
Pristi den projdeme mesto pesky - botanicke zahrady, operu a pristavni most (hlavni ikony Sydney, opera neni bila ale nazloutla!), nejstarsi cast mesta Rocks a financni centrum. Vecer mame v nohach kilometry, ale zvladli jsme vse podstatne.
V nedeli se rozhodneme pro jednodenni vylet mimo mesto. Cilem jsou 2h vlakem vzdalene Blue Mts. A dobre jsme udelali, vzduch voni podzimem a nad ohromnym kanonem zpola zakrytym oblaky se tyci skalni formace zvana 3 sestry. Puldenni trek po hrane kanonu je vytecny.
Krome dalsiho prozkoumavani mesta jeste sedneme na privoz (soucasti MHD je i nekolik privozu) do ctvrte Manly. Zde jdeme na 10km prochazku po pobrezi. Manly je ctvrt bohacu a tak se po ceste stridaji lesiky, plaze a obrovske luxusni domy s prosklenymi stenami pro lepsi vyhled. I kdyz jsme jen pul hodky od centra 4.5mil mesta atmosfera je zde jak na v malem mestecku.
Celkove se nam Sydney hodne libi a i kdyz je to velkomesto jsme prijemne prekvapeni pohodou jaka tu vsude vladne.
Let do Singapuru je plny turbulenci a tak obzvlaste ja jsem rad, ze jsme konecne pristali. Je skoro pulnoc a 30st s 85% vlhkosti vzduchu, narez (kdyby jsme vedeli co nas ceka v Thajsku tak si nestezujeme, ale nepredbihejme). Vsude kolem je videt, ze zvesti o absolutni cistote a fungujici multikulture nelhaly. Napil bych se vody co mame v batohu, ale zakaz psany v anglictine, cinstine, indstine a arabstine slibujici 500dolaru pokuty me odradi.
Jen co v 9 rano vyjdeme ven jsme okamzite propoceni skrz naskrz, sem tam nas profackuje klimatizace kdyz vejdeme do obchodu nebo MHD o to je to pak venku horsi. Nekdy na nas mistni pokukuji, tak si rikame, ze asi uzaviraji sazky jestli zkolabujeme za minutu nebo vydrzime dve...Ale z mesta jsme jinak uplne nadseni. Hypermoderni velikan plny zelene a kultury. Hned na nasi ulici jsou 3 chramy - hindu, budhisticky a arabska mesita. Centrum je plne mrakodrapu ktere se prehani v originalite a extravaganci. Obklopene je jednotlivymi ctvrtemi, indickou, cinskou, arabskou a britskou kolonialni. To vse prolozene obrovskymi nakupnimi stredisky, vemte nejvetsi obchodni centrum co jste v Evrope videli nekolikrat vynasobte a mate to co je tu na kazde ulici.
Chceme se na to vsechno podivat zeshora a tak jdeme na nejvyssi kolo sveta. 152m, otocka trva 30min a tak je dost casu vse vyfotit. Pote to zkusime jeste z jineho uhlu - Bar New Asia v 71poschodi Swisshotelu ma levne dobre koktejly s poradnym vyhledem.
V patek jedeme ostrov Sentosa - zabavni centrum Singapuru. Atrakci jsou spousty, ale my sem jedeme hlavne kvuli obrovske voliere motylu a papousku, a vodniho sveta. Nekteri motyli jsou giganti, jak obe dlane dohromady. Ve vodnim svete zaciname show v delfinariu. Zadny zazrak, ale mistnim detem se libi. To takovy podvodni tunel pod akvariem je jiny zazitek. Stojime na jezdicim pasu a vsude kolem nas plavou nekolikametrovy zraloci, rejnoci, hejna ryb a pestrobarevnych meduz - skoro stejne dobre jako se potapet. Nas favorit je tvor zvany Morsky Andel - maji ho tu v akvariu co simuluje jeho prirozene prostredi - 600m pod krami Arktickeho oceanu. Je miniaturni, ale skrz lupy ve skle akvaria je videt pruhledny svitici tvor ktery ma hlavu a kridla jako andel.
Singapur je prava brana Asie a tak se mame moznost v poulicnich jidelnach pripravit na tu pravou. Nabidka je ciste asijska a nabizi vsemozne pochoutky nektere vabne a nektere nechutne. Pri vyberu ale mame vetsinou stastnou ruku a muzeme si vychutnat stravu kterou za 2 mesice nejspis nebudeme moci ani videt (Janca zatim zapasi s hulkami, ale verim ze behem par dni nebude mit problem :)
Jeste nez opustime mesto bohatstvi a luxusu kde na jedne ulici neni problem napocitat 10 Ferrari, Maserati, atd. se strhne poradna a nami dlouho ocekavana bourka. Blesky jdou za sebou tak casto, ze hrmeni ktere mezi mrakodrapy krasne duni na nekolik minut prakticky neprestane.
Fotky:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=60893&id=1344786025&l=5ea63eef8a
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=60999&id=1344786025&l=4351fa017a
Again for a while we change developing world for a developed one. It is a beautiful autumn in Sydney, temperatures mid twenties and no rain or wind. First evening after our arrival we get collected by Paul, our Irish friend we have not seen in 2yrs. Hi gives us a tour around city centre and we are ready to go for a dinner and few pints where we can go over everything important that happened since our last night out.
Next day we do the tour ourselves by foot - botanical gardens, opera (it is not white but yellowish!), Harbour bridge, oldest city part The Rocks and financial centre. We managed most of the sights in one day and our feet are happy to be finished for the day.
On Sunday we decide to go for a day trip to Blue Mts. About 2hrs on train - we can smell the autumn in the air and just below rock formation called 3sisters we see huge canyon half covered by clouds. Half day hike on the canyon edge is great.
In Sydney we also take a ferry (few lines are part of public transport) to Manly where we go for a 10km stroll along the coast. Manly is a suburb of the wealthy people and so the coast is full of parks, beaches and huge luxury houses that have glass walls for better views. It is only about half an hour from city centre but atmosphere here is like in a small town.
We like Sydney a lot and although it is a big city we are surprised by its laid back pace.
Flight to Singapore is full of turbulence so I am really happy to finally land. It is close to midnight 30degrees and 85% humidity, very tough (if we knew what Thailand is saving for us we wouldn't complain though). Everywhere around we can see that rumours about its absolute cleanliness and functional multi culture are true. We are thirsty but wouldn't risk taking out our water as we see bans in English, Chinese, Indian and Arabian languages everywhere around - 500dollars would be an expensive drink.
We leave our place at 9am and immediately we are covered in sweat, every so often we get knocked out by A/C when entering shops or public transport - going out is even worse. Locals sometimes give us looks like if they were making bets whether we'll faint in a minute or maybe manage two... Despite this we love the city. Hypermodern giant full of parks and culture. Just on our street we can count 3 temples - Hindu, Buddhist and Mosque. Financial centre is full of skyscrapers that compete among themselves who will be more original or extravagant. The centre is surrounded by cultural quarters - Indian, Chinese, Arabian and British colonial architecture. On every corner we see the biggest shopping centre ever...
We want to see it all from above and so go for the worlds biggest turning wheel. 152m, one round 30mins and so we have plenty of time to take pictures. After this we go and try the same from a different angle - New Asia Bar on the 71st floor of Swissotel has nice cheap cocktails with great views.
On Friday we go the Sentosa island - big fun centre. From all the attractions we choose huge butterfly and parrot aviary and water world.
The show in waterworld starts with dolphin show, nothing special but kids seem to love it. The tunnel under aquarium is much much better experience. We stand on a moving belt and go around the world full of big sharks, rays, colorful fish and jellyfish - nearly as good as scuba diving. Our favourite creature is Sea Angel - living in aquarium that simulates its native habitat - 600m below Arctic icebergs. It's tiny but magnifying glass shows its beauty - transparent glowing creature with head and wings like and angel.
Singapore is true gate to the Asia and so we have a lot of opportunities to prepare for the real Asia in food courts along the streets. Offerings are typically Asian varying from delicious stuff all the way to the disgusting things. Most of the time we are lucky when choosing and can enjoy food that we'll probably hate in 2months time. Our chopsticks skill is improving every day.
Just before we leave the city of wealth and luxury where is no problem to see 10 Ferrari, Maserati, etc. cars on one street big storm arrives. Lightning happens so often that thunder enhanced by skyscrapers practically doesn't stop for few minutes.
Pics:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=60893&id=1344786025&l=5ea63eef8a
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=60999&id=1344786025&l=4351fa017a
Pristi den projdeme mesto pesky - botanicke zahrady, operu a pristavni most (hlavni ikony Sydney, opera neni bila ale nazloutla!), nejstarsi cast mesta Rocks a financni centrum. Vecer mame v nohach kilometry, ale zvladli jsme vse podstatne.
V nedeli se rozhodneme pro jednodenni vylet mimo mesto. Cilem jsou 2h vlakem vzdalene Blue Mts. A dobre jsme udelali, vzduch voni podzimem a nad ohromnym kanonem zpola zakrytym oblaky se tyci skalni formace zvana 3 sestry. Puldenni trek po hrane kanonu je vytecny.
Krome dalsiho prozkoumavani mesta jeste sedneme na privoz (soucasti MHD je i nekolik privozu) do ctvrte Manly. Zde jdeme na 10km prochazku po pobrezi. Manly je ctvrt bohacu a tak se po ceste stridaji lesiky, plaze a obrovske luxusni domy s prosklenymi stenami pro lepsi vyhled. I kdyz jsme jen pul hodky od centra 4.5mil mesta atmosfera je zde jak na v malem mestecku.
Celkove se nam Sydney hodne libi a i kdyz je to velkomesto jsme prijemne prekvapeni pohodou jaka tu vsude vladne.
Let do Singapuru je plny turbulenci a tak obzvlaste ja jsem rad, ze jsme konecne pristali. Je skoro pulnoc a 30st s 85% vlhkosti vzduchu, narez (kdyby jsme vedeli co nas ceka v Thajsku tak si nestezujeme, ale nepredbihejme). Vsude kolem je videt, ze zvesti o absolutni cistote a fungujici multikulture nelhaly. Napil bych se vody co mame v batohu, ale zakaz psany v anglictine, cinstine, indstine a arabstine slibujici 500dolaru pokuty me odradi.
Jen co v 9 rano vyjdeme ven jsme okamzite propoceni skrz naskrz, sem tam nas profackuje klimatizace kdyz vejdeme do obchodu nebo MHD o to je to pak venku horsi. Nekdy na nas mistni pokukuji, tak si rikame, ze asi uzaviraji sazky jestli zkolabujeme za minutu nebo vydrzime dve...Ale z mesta jsme jinak uplne nadseni. Hypermoderni velikan plny zelene a kultury. Hned na nasi ulici jsou 3 chramy - hindu, budhisticky a arabska mesita. Centrum je plne mrakodrapu ktere se prehani v originalite a extravaganci. Obklopene je jednotlivymi ctvrtemi, indickou, cinskou, arabskou a britskou kolonialni. To vse prolozene obrovskymi nakupnimi stredisky, vemte nejvetsi obchodni centrum co jste v Evrope videli nekolikrat vynasobte a mate to co je tu na kazde ulici.
Chceme se na to vsechno podivat zeshora a tak jdeme na nejvyssi kolo sveta. 152m, otocka trva 30min a tak je dost casu vse vyfotit. Pote to zkusime jeste z jineho uhlu - Bar New Asia v 71poschodi Swisshotelu ma levne dobre koktejly s poradnym vyhledem.
V patek jedeme ostrov Sentosa - zabavni centrum Singapuru. Atrakci jsou spousty, ale my sem jedeme hlavne kvuli obrovske voliere motylu a papousku, a vodniho sveta. Nekteri motyli jsou giganti, jak obe dlane dohromady. Ve vodnim svete zaciname show v delfinariu. Zadny zazrak, ale mistnim detem se libi. To takovy podvodni tunel pod akvariem je jiny zazitek. Stojime na jezdicim pasu a vsude kolem nas plavou nekolikametrovy zraloci, rejnoci, hejna ryb a pestrobarevnych meduz - skoro stejne dobre jako se potapet. Nas favorit je tvor zvany Morsky Andel - maji ho tu v akvariu co simuluje jeho prirozene prostredi - 600m pod krami Arktickeho oceanu. Je miniaturni, ale skrz lupy ve skle akvaria je videt pruhledny svitici tvor ktery ma hlavu a kridla jako andel.
Singapur je prava brana Asie a tak se mame moznost v poulicnich jidelnach pripravit na tu pravou. Nabidka je ciste asijska a nabizi vsemozne pochoutky nektere vabne a nektere nechutne. Pri vyberu ale mame vetsinou stastnou ruku a muzeme si vychutnat stravu kterou za 2 mesice nejspis nebudeme moci ani videt (Janca zatim zapasi s hulkami, ale verim ze behem par dni nebude mit problem :)
Jeste nez opustime mesto bohatstvi a luxusu kde na jedne ulici neni problem napocitat 10 Ferrari, Maserati, atd. se strhne poradna a nami dlouho ocekavana bourka. Blesky jdou za sebou tak casto, ze hrmeni ktere mezi mrakodrapy krasne duni na nekolik minut prakticky neprestane.
Fotky:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=60893&id=1344786025&l=5ea63eef8a
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=60999&id=1344786025&l=4351fa017a
Again for a while we change developing world for a developed one. It is a beautiful autumn in Sydney, temperatures mid twenties and no rain or wind. First evening after our arrival we get collected by Paul, our Irish friend we have not seen in 2yrs. Hi gives us a tour around city centre and we are ready to go for a dinner and few pints where we can go over everything important that happened since our last night out.
Next day we do the tour ourselves by foot - botanical gardens, opera (it is not white but yellowish!), Harbour bridge, oldest city part The Rocks and financial centre. We managed most of the sights in one day and our feet are happy to be finished for the day.
On Sunday we decide to go for a day trip to Blue Mts. About 2hrs on train - we can smell the autumn in the air and just below rock formation called 3sisters we see huge canyon half covered by clouds. Half day hike on the canyon edge is great.
In Sydney we also take a ferry (few lines are part of public transport) to Manly where we go for a 10km stroll along the coast. Manly is a suburb of the wealthy people and so the coast is full of parks, beaches and huge luxury houses that have glass walls for better views. It is only about half an hour from city centre but atmosphere here is like in a small town.
We like Sydney a lot and although it is a big city we are surprised by its laid back pace.
Flight to Singapore is full of turbulence so I am really happy to finally land. It is close to midnight 30degrees and 85% humidity, very tough (if we knew what Thailand is saving for us we wouldn't complain though). Everywhere around we can see that rumours about its absolute cleanliness and functional multi culture are true. We are thirsty but wouldn't risk taking out our water as we see bans in English, Chinese, Indian and Arabian languages everywhere around - 500dollars would be an expensive drink.
We leave our place at 9am and immediately we are covered in sweat, every so often we get knocked out by A/C when entering shops or public transport - going out is even worse. Locals sometimes give us looks like if they were making bets whether we'll faint in a minute or maybe manage two... Despite this we love the city. Hypermodern giant full of parks and culture. Just on our street we can count 3 temples - Hindu, Buddhist and Mosque. Financial centre is full of skyscrapers that compete among themselves who will be more original or extravagant. The centre is surrounded by cultural quarters - Indian, Chinese, Arabian and British colonial architecture. On every corner we see the biggest shopping centre ever...
We want to see it all from above and so go for the worlds biggest turning wheel. 152m, one round 30mins and so we have plenty of time to take pictures. After this we go and try the same from a different angle - New Asia Bar on the 71st floor of Swissotel has nice cheap cocktails with great views.
On Friday we go the Sentosa island - big fun centre. From all the attractions we choose huge butterfly and parrot aviary and water world.
The show in waterworld starts with dolphin show, nothing special but kids seem to love it. The tunnel under aquarium is much much better experience. We stand on a moving belt and go around the world full of big sharks, rays, colorful fish and jellyfish - nearly as good as scuba diving. Our favourite creature is Sea Angel - living in aquarium that simulates its native habitat - 600m below Arctic icebergs. It's tiny but magnifying glass shows its beauty - transparent glowing creature with head and wings like and angel.
Singapore is true gate to the Asia and so we have a lot of opportunities to prepare for the real Asia in food courts along the streets. Offerings are typically Asian varying from delicious stuff all the way to the disgusting things. Most of the time we are lucky when choosing and can enjoy food that we'll probably hate in 2months time. Our chopsticks skill is improving every day.
Just before we leave the city of wealth and luxury where is no problem to see 10 Ferrari, Maserati, etc. cars on one street big storm arrives. Lightning happens so often that thunder enhanced by skyscrapers practically doesn't stop for few minutes.
Pics:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=60893&id=1344786025&l=5ea63eef8a
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=60999&id=1344786025&l=4351fa017a
Friday, 7 May 2010
Fiji
Vystup z letadla v Nadi je jak rana palici - z krasneho babiho leta do tropu. BULA a vitejte na Fiji! Bula slysime denne nespocetkrat a kazdy od nejmensich po nejstarsi at uz ze zistnych nebo ciste pratelskych duvodu nas s usmevem zdravi. Usmevem se zde opravdu nesetri a vse je Fiji time (proste to nejak dopadne, nic nereste, my take nic resit nebudeme) - asi nejvetsi prekvapeni pro nas je chudoba tohoto rajskeho soustrovi. Vetsinu zeme a podnikani vlastni australani, kteri je dostali vymenou za urovnani astronomickych dluhu teto zeme, a tak mistnim nezbyva nic jineho nez se zaradit do skupiny narodu tretiho sveta. Na druhou stranu se jim neda uprit pozitivni pristup ke vsemu, tolik spokojenosti na jednom miste jsme jeste nevideli.
Za nas prvni cil zvolime skupinu ostrovu Yasawa. Koralove ostrovy a ostruvky smerem na severozapad od hlavniho ostrova Viti Levu. Nastesti nas jeden australan necha poslat sms domu, protoze jak jsme jiz minule psali do raje elektricke vedeni nevede. Zajimave jak jsme si rychle zvykli na NZ na veskere vymozenosti civilizace a ted zase opacnym smerem chvilku trva.
Puvodne jsme jeli za adrenalinem na NZ, ale hned prvni den si ho tu uzijeme vice nez dostatek. Cesta na nas prvni ostrov Nacula trva pres 5h a velika moderni lod pro 400lidi v bource na vlnach skace jak dobre hozeny placaty kamen. Dost lidi ma problemy udrzet se (zaludek, ne rovnovahu protoze vstat ze sedacky bylo zakazano).
Jak pozdeji zjistime na Fiji je velmi dulezite venovat cas a zjistit maximum informaci o resortu kam se chystate. Sezenete tu od nocleharen pro 100lidi plnych nalitych pubertaku az po soukrome ostrovy (cena zacinajici na 3500dolarech za noc) vse. A na zacatek mame aniz by jsme to vedeli stastnou ruku. Resort Nabua Lodge je maly rodinny raj, kde nas hostu nikdy neni vice nez 15. Tradicni chatky bure postavene z palem jsou tak 20m od more a tak tu stravime rovnou cely tyden. Jeste musime ale zminit jednu vec ktera narusuje jinak absolutni nirvanu - komari otravujou docela dost a bez moskytiery by to byly krusne noci. Nastesti je pres den na ne moc velky vedro. Ale jinak si uzivame tyden pohody - knizka + houpaci sit mezi palmami na plazi, pruzracna voda 29st, sem tam sebereme kokos a postupne jak se lepe seznamujeme s mistnimi vstebavame jejich kulturu. Po vecer tancime hromadne bula tance, hrajeme karty nebo volejbal. Take ochutname kava koren - koren s narkotickym ucinkem, ale po par miskach tak maximalne umrtvi jazyk, dasne a rty. Barva vody z pracky, chut nevalna, ale jak jsme videli domorodce po 30ti miskach dokaze to cloveka poradne rozstrelit.
Jeden den se rozhodneme s Honzou a Luckou co prijeli na dovcu prozkoumat ostrov z vysky a vylezeme na nejvyssi kopec (nahoru se dostanu jen ja s Honzou, holky vedro zdepta v puli cesty). Cestou zpatky se rozhodneme pro zkratku a samozrejme zabloudime. Trava vyssi nez my a tak je to docela dobrodruzo. Nakonec poslehany najdeme kokosovy haj s domacimi zviraty a vesnici kde nas odvedou zpatky do resortu. Odpoledne jdeme s Honzou snorchlovat do nedaleke Oarsmans bay. Staci zajit 5min za nas resort a clovek ma kilometry nedotcenych plazi jen pro sebe. Neco co jen tak v beznych letoviscich nenajdete.
Dalsi den se nechame s Jancou odvezt do Modre Laguny (tocil se tu stejnomenny film) kde je snorchlovani trochu jine nez vcera. Koral neni tak pekny jako vcera, ale zase je vetsi tak je tu vice ryb. Hejna pestrobarevnych rybek jak v akvariu.
Po veceri koukame na flasku vody co z ni pijeme a je plna cerviku. Ukazeme to mistnim a ty rikaji, ze tankujeme ze spatneho barelu (veskera uzitkova a pitna voda je destova, zadne prameny na ostrovech nejsou), ale cervici jsou nastesti neskodni a prestali jsme to bez jakychkoliv problemu.
V sobotu prijde den Lova. Konecne poradne jidlo! Krome komaru by si tu jeste nekdo mohl stezovat na stravu, v levnejsich resortech je jidlo hodne jednotvarne, docela dietni a porce nejsou nijak velike. Lovo je tradicni pokrm pripravovany v kokosovych a bananovych listech na rozpalenych kamenech zakopanych v zemi.
Nedele rano je silny zazitek. Dostaneme tradicni oblek sulu (zeny i muzi nosi kazdodenne zavinovaci sukni), pestrobarevne vzory sviti na dalku a jdeme na msi do kostela. Prochazime palmovym hajem a slysime fijiskou disko muziku. Za chvilku dojdeme na palouk s kuly na kterych je strecha z vlniteho plechu = kostel. V hlouccich se pohupuji fijiske rodiny a tleskaji do rytmu. Po disco ale prijde na radu hodinove kazani ve fijijstine, nuda. Nastesti nas nas patron Lulu vysvobodi a odvede na prohlidku vesnice (cizincum je do vesnice bez doprovodu vstup zakazan) a sveho domu. Domy jsou velmi jednoduche, postel a rohoz na zemi. Toaleta, kuchynka venku. Je videt, ze Lulu je na dum co postavil pysny a pozve nas bydlet sobe na zem az pry priste prijedeme. Krasne gesto.
Po tydnu na Nacule prejedeme na Waya Lailai, na lodi znovu potkame Honzu s Luckou. Skoda, ze se jim blizi konec a nemuzou s nami zustat dele. Alespon s Honzou stihneme snorchlovani na koralech na otevrenem mori. A kam se hrabe snorchlovani u brehu. Viditelnost hrave pres 25m, ryby a koraly mnohem lepsi. Netrva dlouho a vidime to za cim jsme prijeli - elegan mistnich vod reef (koralovy?) zralok. Nevelka (1.5m) a pry cloveku neskodna paryba. Po te co pruvodce zacne mavat vykuchanou rybou se behem 15ti minut objevi dalsich 6. Kdyz vidim jak je nas pruvodce objima tak se jako prvni z turistu odhodlam prolomit predsudek o nebezpecnosti a potopim se a take si jednoho pohladim. Jen je musim mit tak max do 6ti metru, domorodec se na nadech v pohode potopi 2x hloubeji a jeste se dole zdrzuje. Verim, ze si tenhle vylet Honza uzil stejne jako ja. Parada!
Navnazen snorchlovanim z predchoziho dne se rozhodnu jit jeste o stupinek dale a zaplatim si zacatecnicky kurz potapeni se 2ma ponory. Vse jde v pohode, jen mam trochu problemy s vyrovnavanim tlaku v pravem uchu a tak klesam docela pomalu. Ale hned napoprve zvladnu test ve 12m pod hladinou, vyndani privodu vzduchu a vyliti bryly (zni to dost divne vylit vodu z bryly pod vodou, ale vazne to jde) a muzeme na otevrene more.
A pripadam si jak v dokumentarnim filmu, 30m vysoka/hluboka stena koralu (videt je ale o dost dale) hraje vyraznymi barvami, druhu ryb jsou stovky. Plus dalsi zivocichove...Instruktor mi ukazuje ruzne zajimavosti. Treba prinese tvora kteremu se rika morska okurka a zacne ho hladit. Za chvilku z nej vystreli 2m proudy tenkych bilich provazku (asi spermii?). Mezi me favority patri koral co ma tenoucky cerny stonek asi metr dlouhy a na konci velky rudy kvet. A pak urcite ryba cetna jak noc s ostrou milimetrovou konturou ktera modre sviti a pulzuje jako neon! Bohuzel jako zacatecnik nejsem tak efektivni se vzduchem a kazda bomba mi vydrzi jen 40min.
Ale i tak vim, proc se lide z celeho sveta sjizdi prave sem!
Po Yasawe se rozhodneme prozkoumat hlavni ostrov. Zajedeme do hlavniho mesta Suvy. Ale nijak nas nenadchne. Od narodniho muzea jsme cekali hodne na tema kanibalismu, ktery se tu jeste pred 100lety bezne praktikoval (jeden nacelnik kmene pry sam snedl pres 800 lidi!), ale muzeum je zklamani. Lepsi expozici lze videt v kteremkoliv obchodu se suvenyry.
Po hlavnim ostrove jeste zajedeme na par dni na ostrov Mana v Mamanuca ostrovech. Ostrov je krasny, ale podcenili jsme pripravu a skoncili v resortu plnem nevyspelych spratku pro ktere je vrchol existence dobre se opit. Takze noci jsou docela divoke. Plus mame moznost zjistit jak silene svedi stipance po stenicich. Dokonce jsem prestal nadavat na komary.. Nesmime ale opomenout zminit skolu ve vesnici kterou navstivime spolecne s Lindou, holandankou co tu uci. Asi 40deti ve 2 jednotridkach 6-13let. Ne vsechny deti z vesnice chodi do skoly. Stat skolstvi nepodporuje a veskere naklady jsou hrazene z kostelnich prispevku a skolneho. Skolne je 20fiji dolaru na semestr a ne vsichni si to muzou dovolit. Co si mistni musi myslet kdyz tu vidi britske a nemecke pubertaky utracet 50-100 dolaru kazdy vecer jen za pivo?
Pred odjezdem jeste zajdeme do skoly na den sportu a her. Je to sranda a deti to hodne bavi. Jsou vylozene nadsene a fandi svym tymum co to jde, radost kdyz se vyhraje je nezmerna. Skoda, ze nemame zadne fotky, den predem se nam na kajaku povedlo utopit fotak a trvalo 3dni nez se vzpamatoval.
Na Manu a zpet nas neveze zadna velka moderni lod jako na Naculu, ale mala kocabka. Dekujeme vsem svatym, ze je celkem klidne more. Ale i tak sem tam popoletime jako hejna letajicich ryb kolem...
Honzo, Lucko v komentarich mate prostor k editaci a doplneni, tak se cinte ;)
PS: Povedlo se mi vyfotit jednoho z nejjedovatejsich tvoru planety. Nastesti je tenhle morsky had tak maly, ze cloveka nedokaze kousnout. Ale i tak jsem fotil z uctive metrove vzdalenosti :)
Foto:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=59613&id=1344786025&l=1ccf4a0340
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=60389&id=1344786025&l=5e7e0ded06
Exiting the plane in Nadi is like being hit with a hammer - from very pleasant mid twenties to the tropics. BULA and welcome to Fiji! Bula is said to us daily many times and we hear it from the young and old likewise, sometimes mercantile sometimes just friendly reason but always delivered with a big smile. Everything goes according to Fiji time (somehow it will work out, don't bother yourself with anything, we'll do the same) - probably the biggest surprise to us is the poverty of these paradise islands. Most of the land and enterprises are owned by Australians that get it in exchange for paying off Fiji's debts. And so the locals have very little to say on the fact that they are 3rd world nation. On the other hand we cannot deny their positive attitude, we have not seen so much happiness in one place yet.
Our first stop after Nadi will be group of Yasawa islands. Fortunately one of the Aussie guys let us use his mobile phone to send sms home, as we mentioned in one of the emails before paradise is not supplied with electricity. Funny how quickly we got used to all the civilisation convenience in NZ and now it takes a while to forget it again. Initially we went for an adrenalin to NZ and to Fiji for a rest but the first boat trip made it look other way round. Big modern ship for 400people jumps on the huge waves in the storm for over 5hrs. And we can see that quite a lot of people have a small seasickness problem. No walking or standing is allowed.
As we find out later on it pays off to do as much research on resorts as possible in advance. Fiji offers everything from shared rooms for 100people to private villas starting on 3500 dollars a night. In the beginning without even knowing we have a lucky hand. Resort Nabua Lodge is small family run paradise where was never more than 15 guests. Traditional bure houses built from palms are only 20m from the beach and we love the place so much we stay here for over a week. Although we have to mention one thing that disrupts otherwise absolute nirvana - mosquitoes are annoying and without mosquito net the night would be sleepless. Fortunately during the day is for them too hot. Besides this a week of well deserved well-being after hard travelling - book + hammock hanging below palm trees, clear warm water, from time to time we pick up a coconut and gradually we get to know locals better and assimilate the culture. We dance bula dance in the evenings, play cards and volleyball. We also try the kava root drink - root with a narcotic effects, but after few bowls the only effect we can feel is tongue and lips anaesthesia. Colour of used washmashine water, not much of a taste, but as we saw the locals 30bowls can properly knock off a big man.
We explore the Nacula island on foot with a Czech couple that are here on vacation. We hike to the highest peak of the island, but only me and Honza go all the way. Girls return half way up surrendering to the heat. On our way back we decide for a shortcut and obviously get lost. Grass taller than us - adventure. After couple hours we find a meadow with some cattle and pigs and further on a village. From here we get pointed in the right direction. After lunch we go snorkeling to Oarsmans Bay. 5mins away from the resort along the coast and one can have kilometres of intact beaches for himself. Something you won't find in usual holiday spots.
Day after we go snorkeling again, this time in Blue Lagoon (movie of the same name was made here). Coral is not so nice as yesterday but there is more fish. Like in huge aquarium. After a dinner we notice that our water bottle is full of tiny worms. And find out we have been taking water from a wrong tank (all fresh water comes from rain, no wells on the islands), fortunately the worms are harmless so we survive without any problems.
On Saturday is a Lovo day. Finally proper food (similar to NZ hangi)! Besides mosquito someone could complain about local food. In cheaper resorts is food very monotonous, quite dietary and portions not very filling. Also combination of various ingredients is very unusual, we never know whether they are just running out of it and put together whatever is left or whether it's like that on purpose (but try to mix some pineapple into your coleslaw - delicious!).
Sunday morning is a great experience. We don a traditional sulu (both men and women wear wrap up skirts), colorful patterns can be seen from distance and we go to the mass. Walking through the palm trees woods we can hear a Fijian disco music. In a while we enter a glade where on the stakes is a roof of corrugated metal = church. Fiji families in groups clasp their hands and dance. After the disco we listen to the sermon in Fiji language, boring. Fortunately we are saved by our friend Lulu who takes us for a tour of the village (foreigners are prohibited to enter villages unless invited). Houses are very simple, bed and mat on the floor. Toilet and kitchen sink outside. Lulu built his house himself and we can see he is very proud of it. He invites us to stay with his family when we visit next time - lovely gesture.
After a week on Nacula island we move to Waya Lailai. On the boat we meet our Czech friends again. Pity they cannot stay longer. At least me and Honza manage to do some snorkeling on the coral in the open sea. Way much better that snorkeling just off the shore. Visibility easily over 25m, both fish and coral much better. Not long and we can see the thing we came here for - reef shark. Not big (only about 1.5m) and reputedly human harmless. After our guide pulls out dead fish another 6 make appearance. When I see how he plays with them I decide to break the danger prejudice and dive to touch one of them too. They just must not be any deeper than 6m, how does the guide manage to go twice as deep and stay there for so long? What a great trip!
Encouraged by yesterday's trip I decide to take one more step and go for a introductory dive including 2 dives. Everything goes fine, just have a small trouble with pressure equalization in my right ear and dive down very slowly. After I manage a test 12m down below surface I am allowed to go diving with supervision on the open sea (taking out and replacing of breathing hose and goggles, funny you can pour out a water out of them while below surface).
Diving on the open sea reminds me of watching documentary movie, 30m tall/deep wall of colorful coral, various fishes and other life forms...Instructor shows me a lot of interesting stuff. Like sea cucumber, thing that he rubs and after a while it shoots out long white cords. My favorite sights were long thin black coral with big red flower on the top and jet black fish with sharp blue outline that actually pulsate like a neon! Unfortunately as a beginner I am not very effective with my air and make only 40mins out of each air tank. Now I know why so many people from other side of the world come right here!
After Yasawa group we decide to explore the main land Viti Levu and its capital Suva. Not much to see there. We expected quite a lot from the national museum, especially on the cannibalism topic that was still practised in 19th century (one of the chiefs consumed over 800people all by himself!), but you can see better exposition in any of the souvenir shops.
After main island we go for a couple days on Mana island in Mamanuca group.
Island is beautiful but we overestimated our luck with choosing of resorts and ended up in place full of teenagers. So the nights are bit wild. On the top of that we have the opportunity to find out how itchy the bedbugs bites are. I even stopped giving out about mosquitoes...The main thing we must mention is local school that we visit with Linda a Dutch teacher that currently works here. 40kids in 2classes, age 6-13yrs. Not all the kids from the village go to the school. Government does not support education and all costs are covered by church and school fees. Fee for a semester is 20 Fiji dollars and not everybody can afford it. What must the locals be thinking when they see the western teenagers spending 50-100dollars a night just for a beer?
Before our departure we go to school to watch a sporting and game day. Great fun and children enjoy it very much. They are downright excited and support their teams as much as possible, joy when they win is immense. Pity we don't have any pictures from the day as we managed to drown our camera on a kayak trip day earlier.
Our transport to Mana and back is not a big modern ship like to Nacula but a small old homemade boat. We thank to all saints that the sea is calm, even so we sometimes fly like flying fish all around us.
PS: I managed to take a picture of one of the most poisonous creatures in the world. Fortunately is this sea snake so tiny that it cannot open its jaws wide enough to bite a man. Even so I took the pictures from respectful distance :)
Pics:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=59613&id=1344786025&l=1ccf4a0340
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=60389&id=1344786025&l=5e7e0ded06
Za nas prvni cil zvolime skupinu ostrovu Yasawa. Koralove ostrovy a ostruvky smerem na severozapad od hlavniho ostrova Viti Levu. Nastesti nas jeden australan necha poslat sms domu, protoze jak jsme jiz minule psali do raje elektricke vedeni nevede. Zajimave jak jsme si rychle zvykli na NZ na veskere vymozenosti civilizace a ted zase opacnym smerem chvilku trva.
Puvodne jsme jeli za adrenalinem na NZ, ale hned prvni den si ho tu uzijeme vice nez dostatek. Cesta na nas prvni ostrov Nacula trva pres 5h a velika moderni lod pro 400lidi v bource na vlnach skace jak dobre hozeny placaty kamen. Dost lidi ma problemy udrzet se (zaludek, ne rovnovahu protoze vstat ze sedacky bylo zakazano).
Jak pozdeji zjistime na Fiji je velmi dulezite venovat cas a zjistit maximum informaci o resortu kam se chystate. Sezenete tu od nocleharen pro 100lidi plnych nalitych pubertaku az po soukrome ostrovy (cena zacinajici na 3500dolarech za noc) vse. A na zacatek mame aniz by jsme to vedeli stastnou ruku. Resort Nabua Lodge je maly rodinny raj, kde nas hostu nikdy neni vice nez 15. Tradicni chatky bure postavene z palem jsou tak 20m od more a tak tu stravime rovnou cely tyden. Jeste musime ale zminit jednu vec ktera narusuje jinak absolutni nirvanu - komari otravujou docela dost a bez moskytiery by to byly krusne noci. Nastesti je pres den na ne moc velky vedro. Ale jinak si uzivame tyden pohody - knizka + houpaci sit mezi palmami na plazi, pruzracna voda 29st, sem tam sebereme kokos a postupne jak se lepe seznamujeme s mistnimi vstebavame jejich kulturu. Po vecer tancime hromadne bula tance, hrajeme karty nebo volejbal. Take ochutname kava koren - koren s narkotickym ucinkem, ale po par miskach tak maximalne umrtvi jazyk, dasne a rty. Barva vody z pracky, chut nevalna, ale jak jsme videli domorodce po 30ti miskach dokaze to cloveka poradne rozstrelit.
Jeden den se rozhodneme s Honzou a Luckou co prijeli na dovcu prozkoumat ostrov z vysky a vylezeme na nejvyssi kopec (nahoru se dostanu jen ja s Honzou, holky vedro zdepta v puli cesty). Cestou zpatky se rozhodneme pro zkratku a samozrejme zabloudime. Trava vyssi nez my a tak je to docela dobrodruzo. Nakonec poslehany najdeme kokosovy haj s domacimi zviraty a vesnici kde nas odvedou zpatky do resortu. Odpoledne jdeme s Honzou snorchlovat do nedaleke Oarsmans bay. Staci zajit 5min za nas resort a clovek ma kilometry nedotcenych plazi jen pro sebe. Neco co jen tak v beznych letoviscich nenajdete.
Dalsi den se nechame s Jancou odvezt do Modre Laguny (tocil se tu stejnomenny film) kde je snorchlovani trochu jine nez vcera. Koral neni tak pekny jako vcera, ale zase je vetsi tak je tu vice ryb. Hejna pestrobarevnych rybek jak v akvariu.
Po veceri koukame na flasku vody co z ni pijeme a je plna cerviku. Ukazeme to mistnim a ty rikaji, ze tankujeme ze spatneho barelu (veskera uzitkova a pitna voda je destova, zadne prameny na ostrovech nejsou), ale cervici jsou nastesti neskodni a prestali jsme to bez jakychkoliv problemu.
V sobotu prijde den Lova. Konecne poradne jidlo! Krome komaru by si tu jeste nekdo mohl stezovat na stravu, v levnejsich resortech je jidlo hodne jednotvarne, docela dietni a porce nejsou nijak velike. Lovo je tradicni pokrm pripravovany v kokosovych a bananovych listech na rozpalenych kamenech zakopanych v zemi.
Nedele rano je silny zazitek. Dostaneme tradicni oblek sulu (zeny i muzi nosi kazdodenne zavinovaci sukni), pestrobarevne vzory sviti na dalku a jdeme na msi do kostela. Prochazime palmovym hajem a slysime fijiskou disko muziku. Za chvilku dojdeme na palouk s kuly na kterych je strecha z vlniteho plechu = kostel. V hlouccich se pohupuji fijiske rodiny a tleskaji do rytmu. Po disco ale prijde na radu hodinove kazani ve fijijstine, nuda. Nastesti nas nas patron Lulu vysvobodi a odvede na prohlidku vesnice (cizincum je do vesnice bez doprovodu vstup zakazan) a sveho domu. Domy jsou velmi jednoduche, postel a rohoz na zemi. Toaleta, kuchynka venku. Je videt, ze Lulu je na dum co postavil pysny a pozve nas bydlet sobe na zem az pry priste prijedeme. Krasne gesto.
Po tydnu na Nacule prejedeme na Waya Lailai, na lodi znovu potkame Honzu s Luckou. Skoda, ze se jim blizi konec a nemuzou s nami zustat dele. Alespon s Honzou stihneme snorchlovani na koralech na otevrenem mori. A kam se hrabe snorchlovani u brehu. Viditelnost hrave pres 25m, ryby a koraly mnohem lepsi. Netrva dlouho a vidime to za cim jsme prijeli - elegan mistnich vod reef (koralovy?) zralok. Nevelka (1.5m) a pry cloveku neskodna paryba. Po te co pruvodce zacne mavat vykuchanou rybou se behem 15ti minut objevi dalsich 6. Kdyz vidim jak je nas pruvodce objima tak se jako prvni z turistu odhodlam prolomit predsudek o nebezpecnosti a potopim se a take si jednoho pohladim. Jen je musim mit tak max do 6ti metru, domorodec se na nadech v pohode potopi 2x hloubeji a jeste se dole zdrzuje. Verim, ze si tenhle vylet Honza uzil stejne jako ja. Parada!
Navnazen snorchlovanim z predchoziho dne se rozhodnu jit jeste o stupinek dale a zaplatim si zacatecnicky kurz potapeni se 2ma ponory. Vse jde v pohode, jen mam trochu problemy s vyrovnavanim tlaku v pravem uchu a tak klesam docela pomalu. Ale hned napoprve zvladnu test ve 12m pod hladinou, vyndani privodu vzduchu a vyliti bryly (zni to dost divne vylit vodu z bryly pod vodou, ale vazne to jde) a muzeme na otevrene more.
A pripadam si jak v dokumentarnim filmu, 30m vysoka/hluboka stena koralu (videt je ale o dost dale) hraje vyraznymi barvami, druhu ryb jsou stovky. Plus dalsi zivocichove...Instruktor mi ukazuje ruzne zajimavosti. Treba prinese tvora kteremu se rika morska okurka a zacne ho hladit. Za chvilku z nej vystreli 2m proudy tenkych bilich provazku (asi spermii?). Mezi me favority patri koral co ma tenoucky cerny stonek asi metr dlouhy a na konci velky rudy kvet. A pak urcite ryba cetna jak noc s ostrou milimetrovou konturou ktera modre sviti a pulzuje jako neon! Bohuzel jako zacatecnik nejsem tak efektivni se vzduchem a kazda bomba mi vydrzi jen 40min.
Ale i tak vim, proc se lide z celeho sveta sjizdi prave sem!
Po Yasawe se rozhodneme prozkoumat hlavni ostrov. Zajedeme do hlavniho mesta Suvy. Ale nijak nas nenadchne. Od narodniho muzea jsme cekali hodne na tema kanibalismu, ktery se tu jeste pred 100lety bezne praktikoval (jeden nacelnik kmene pry sam snedl pres 800 lidi!), ale muzeum je zklamani. Lepsi expozici lze videt v kteremkoliv obchodu se suvenyry.
Po hlavnim ostrove jeste zajedeme na par dni na ostrov Mana v Mamanuca ostrovech. Ostrov je krasny, ale podcenili jsme pripravu a skoncili v resortu plnem nevyspelych spratku pro ktere je vrchol existence dobre se opit. Takze noci jsou docela divoke. Plus mame moznost zjistit jak silene svedi stipance po stenicich. Dokonce jsem prestal nadavat na komary.. Nesmime ale opomenout zminit skolu ve vesnici kterou navstivime spolecne s Lindou, holandankou co tu uci. Asi 40deti ve 2 jednotridkach 6-13let. Ne vsechny deti z vesnice chodi do skoly. Stat skolstvi nepodporuje a veskere naklady jsou hrazene z kostelnich prispevku a skolneho. Skolne je 20fiji dolaru na semestr a ne vsichni si to muzou dovolit. Co si mistni musi myslet kdyz tu vidi britske a nemecke pubertaky utracet 50-100 dolaru kazdy vecer jen za pivo?
Pred odjezdem jeste zajdeme do skoly na den sportu a her. Je to sranda a deti to hodne bavi. Jsou vylozene nadsene a fandi svym tymum co to jde, radost kdyz se vyhraje je nezmerna. Skoda, ze nemame zadne fotky, den predem se nam na kajaku povedlo utopit fotak a trvalo 3dni nez se vzpamatoval.
Na Manu a zpet nas neveze zadna velka moderni lod jako na Naculu, ale mala kocabka. Dekujeme vsem svatym, ze je celkem klidne more. Ale i tak sem tam popoletime jako hejna letajicich ryb kolem...
Honzo, Lucko v komentarich mate prostor k editaci a doplneni, tak se cinte ;)
PS: Povedlo se mi vyfotit jednoho z nejjedovatejsich tvoru planety. Nastesti je tenhle morsky had tak maly, ze cloveka nedokaze kousnout. Ale i tak jsem fotil z uctive metrove vzdalenosti :)
Foto:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=59613&id=1344786025&l=1ccf4a0340
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=60389&id=1344786025&l=5e7e0ded06
Exiting the plane in Nadi is like being hit with a hammer - from very pleasant mid twenties to the tropics. BULA and welcome to Fiji! Bula is said to us daily many times and we hear it from the young and old likewise, sometimes mercantile sometimes just friendly reason but always delivered with a big smile. Everything goes according to Fiji time (somehow it will work out, don't bother yourself with anything, we'll do the same) - probably the biggest surprise to us is the poverty of these paradise islands. Most of the land and enterprises are owned by Australians that get it in exchange for paying off Fiji's debts. And so the locals have very little to say on the fact that they are 3rd world nation. On the other hand we cannot deny their positive attitude, we have not seen so much happiness in one place yet.
Our first stop after Nadi will be group of Yasawa islands. Fortunately one of the Aussie guys let us use his mobile phone to send sms home, as we mentioned in one of the emails before paradise is not supplied with electricity. Funny how quickly we got used to all the civilisation convenience in NZ and now it takes a while to forget it again. Initially we went for an adrenalin to NZ and to Fiji for a rest but the first boat trip made it look other way round. Big modern ship for 400people jumps on the huge waves in the storm for over 5hrs. And we can see that quite a lot of people have a small seasickness problem. No walking or standing is allowed.
As we find out later on it pays off to do as much research on resorts as possible in advance. Fiji offers everything from shared rooms for 100people to private villas starting on 3500 dollars a night. In the beginning without even knowing we have a lucky hand. Resort Nabua Lodge is small family run paradise where was never more than 15 guests. Traditional bure houses built from palms are only 20m from the beach and we love the place so much we stay here for over a week. Although we have to mention one thing that disrupts otherwise absolute nirvana - mosquitoes are annoying and without mosquito net the night would be sleepless. Fortunately during the day is for them too hot. Besides this a week of well deserved well-being after hard travelling - book + hammock hanging below palm trees, clear warm water, from time to time we pick up a coconut and gradually we get to know locals better and assimilate the culture. We dance bula dance in the evenings, play cards and volleyball. We also try the kava root drink - root with a narcotic effects, but after few bowls the only effect we can feel is tongue and lips anaesthesia. Colour of used washmashine water, not much of a taste, but as we saw the locals 30bowls can properly knock off a big man.
We explore the Nacula island on foot with a Czech couple that are here on vacation. We hike to the highest peak of the island, but only me and Honza go all the way. Girls return half way up surrendering to the heat. On our way back we decide for a shortcut and obviously get lost. Grass taller than us - adventure. After couple hours we find a meadow with some cattle and pigs and further on a village. From here we get pointed in the right direction. After lunch we go snorkeling to Oarsmans Bay. 5mins away from the resort along the coast and one can have kilometres of intact beaches for himself. Something you won't find in usual holiday spots.
Day after we go snorkeling again, this time in Blue Lagoon (movie of the same name was made here). Coral is not so nice as yesterday but there is more fish. Like in huge aquarium. After a dinner we notice that our water bottle is full of tiny worms. And find out we have been taking water from a wrong tank (all fresh water comes from rain, no wells on the islands), fortunately the worms are harmless so we survive without any problems.
On Saturday is a Lovo day. Finally proper food (similar to NZ hangi)! Besides mosquito someone could complain about local food. In cheaper resorts is food very monotonous, quite dietary and portions not very filling. Also combination of various ingredients is very unusual, we never know whether they are just running out of it and put together whatever is left or whether it's like that on purpose (but try to mix some pineapple into your coleslaw - delicious!).
Sunday morning is a great experience. We don a traditional sulu (both men and women wear wrap up skirts), colorful patterns can be seen from distance and we go to the mass. Walking through the palm trees woods we can hear a Fijian disco music. In a while we enter a glade where on the stakes is a roof of corrugated metal = church. Fiji families in groups clasp their hands and dance. After the disco we listen to the sermon in Fiji language, boring. Fortunately we are saved by our friend Lulu who takes us for a tour of the village (foreigners are prohibited to enter villages unless invited). Houses are very simple, bed and mat on the floor. Toilet and kitchen sink outside. Lulu built his house himself and we can see he is very proud of it. He invites us to stay with his family when we visit next time - lovely gesture.
After a week on Nacula island we move to Waya Lailai. On the boat we meet our Czech friends again. Pity they cannot stay longer. At least me and Honza manage to do some snorkeling on the coral in the open sea. Way much better that snorkeling just off the shore. Visibility easily over 25m, both fish and coral much better. Not long and we can see the thing we came here for - reef shark. Not big (only about 1.5m) and reputedly human harmless. After our guide pulls out dead fish another 6 make appearance. When I see how he plays with them I decide to break the danger prejudice and dive to touch one of them too. They just must not be any deeper than 6m, how does the guide manage to go twice as deep and stay there for so long? What a great trip!
Encouraged by yesterday's trip I decide to take one more step and go for a introductory dive including 2 dives. Everything goes fine, just have a small trouble with pressure equalization in my right ear and dive down very slowly. After I manage a test 12m down below surface I am allowed to go diving with supervision on the open sea (taking out and replacing of breathing hose and goggles, funny you can pour out a water out of them while below surface).
Diving on the open sea reminds me of watching documentary movie, 30m tall/deep wall of colorful coral, various fishes and other life forms...Instructor shows me a lot of interesting stuff. Like sea cucumber, thing that he rubs and after a while it shoots out long white cords. My favorite sights were long thin black coral with big red flower on the top and jet black fish with sharp blue outline that actually pulsate like a neon! Unfortunately as a beginner I am not very effective with my air and make only 40mins out of each air tank. Now I know why so many people from other side of the world come right here!
After Yasawa group we decide to explore the main land Viti Levu and its capital Suva. Not much to see there. We expected quite a lot from the national museum, especially on the cannibalism topic that was still practised in 19th century (one of the chiefs consumed over 800people all by himself!), but you can see better exposition in any of the souvenir shops.
After main island we go for a couple days on Mana island in Mamanuca group.
Island is beautiful but we overestimated our luck with choosing of resorts and ended up in place full of teenagers. So the nights are bit wild. On the top of that we have the opportunity to find out how itchy the bedbugs bites are. I even stopped giving out about mosquitoes...The main thing we must mention is local school that we visit with Linda a Dutch teacher that currently works here. 40kids in 2classes, age 6-13yrs. Not all the kids from the village go to the school. Government does not support education and all costs are covered by church and school fees. Fee for a semester is 20 Fiji dollars and not everybody can afford it. What must the locals be thinking when they see the western teenagers spending 50-100dollars a night just for a beer?
Before our departure we go to school to watch a sporting and game day. Great fun and children enjoy it very much. They are downright excited and support their teams as much as possible, joy when they win is immense. Pity we don't have any pictures from the day as we managed to drown our camera on a kayak trip day earlier.
Our transport to Mana and back is not a big modern ship like to Nacula but a small old homemade boat. We thank to all saints that the sea is calm, even so we sometimes fly like flying fish all around us.
PS: I managed to take a picture of one of the most poisonous creatures in the world. Fortunately is this sea snake so tiny that it cannot open its jaws wide enough to bite a man. Even so I took the pictures from respectful distance :)
Pics:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=59613&id=1344786025&l=1ccf4a0340
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=60389&id=1344786025&l=5e7e0ded06
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