Puno-Cusco (Peru)

Formality na hranicich jsou bez problemu a tak nic nebrani pokracovani v ceste do Puna. Nakonec po tom vsem dojedeme jen s hodinovym zpozdenim. Ihned koupime podezrele levny listek na vecer do Cusca a jdeme do mesta. Na to jak jsme porad vysoko je hic. Na turistickych informacich nam radi, ze pokud chceme na vyhlidku mesta nemame brat krome obleceni nic nebo se jen nechat vyvezt taxikem a kouknout z okenka, tak tam opravdu nechceme. Radeji zajdeme na obed - a je to jeste levnejsi nez v Bolivii! 3 chody v hospode za 16kc je slusna cena. Pote se nechame riksou, kterych je plne mesto a nahrazuji taxiky, odvezt do pristavu. Pri cekani nez se naplni lod se stestim unikneme scamu. Chlapek stoji pred nami hraje na pistalu (hodne spatne, rozmyslim jestli mu nezaplatit hned at uz toho necha) a malej parchant se oknem zezadu natahuje pro cokoliv co lezi vedle nas na sedacce. Ale asi uz je to podmineny reflex, batohy jsou na zemi a skrz popruh mame protazenou nohu. Kazdopadne si kluka vsimneme az po predstaveni kdy odchazi, mit cokoliv na sedacce tak uz to nemame. Cekame docela dlouho nez se naplni lod, ale pak je to jen kratka jizda cestou v rakosu a jsme na plovoucich ostrovech Uros. Cele ostrovy, obydli, lode atd je vse z rakosu. Tradici zalozil kmen ktery prchal pred krvelacnym tazenim Inku. A stovky lidi Uros zde dodnes zije. Moc se nam tu libi, prezentace je zajimava. Jeste ten samy vecer jedeme nocnim busem do Cusca.
Cusco je krasne - na inckych zakladech kolonialni architektura. A je opravdu videt, ze to kdysi byl doslovne pupek sveta. Toto sebou zaroven nese vse co je spojene s obrovskym turismem - vsemozni prodejci, nahaneci, cistici bot, atd. Vsichni jsou absolutne neodbytni a i kdyz jim reknete, ze maji hnusne zbozi a ignorujeme je, dal otravuji. To co zbylo z inckych zdi je fascinujici. Dokonala presnost opracovani velkych balvanu - spary tenke jako papir se ani po tisiciletich nehnuly, a to musely preckat nekolik velkych zemetreseni. Vecer zaleham do postele a cely dalsi a jeste pristi den lezim s kombinaci chripky a strevnich potizi. Diky nedavnym sesuvum je tu turismus na tom tak bidne, ze se nam podarilo ukecat pokoj s tv a snidani z 90 na 30solu, tv vetsinou neni hlavni prioritou, ale ted jsem za ni hodne rad. Stesti, ze tu inkove kolem Cusca vybudovali 365 obradnich mist a Janca tak ma co delat.
Predposledni den je mi konecne lip a tak se pripojuji k Jance na puldenni tour. Porad jeste drzime nadeji na Macchu Picchu. Jeden podnikavec tu organizuje vylet jeepem pod MP. V pulnoci straze odchazeji, pak je mozno je obejit a behem 4h treku v noci vylezt nahoru, prespat na MP a pak je mit cely den jen pro sebe. Zni to hodne dobrodruzne, ale kdyz chceme vice detailu vse je velice vagni a ani nevime kdy by se jelo, takze nestihame zmenit listky na vecer do Arequipy. Skoda, musime to nechat na priste :) Uz takhle tu nechavame neprozkoumane Galapagy, amazonskou dzungli a Angels vodopad...

Fotky:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=55558&id=1344786025&l=d1a9382a3e


Formalities on the border are without any problems and so nothing prevents us from continuing to Puno. After all of that we have just an hour delay. After arrival we immediately buy suspiciously cheap ticket to Cusco and go to town. Considering how high we are it´s very hot. At the tourist office we are told not to bring anything except clothes to the town viewpoint. Or take the taxi and locked inside just have a look from the window. I think this is a place we really don´t want to visit. We rather go for a lunch - and it´s tiny bit cheaper than in Bolivia! 3 course lunch for 50c is decent price. Here in Puno rickshaws replaced most of the taxis so we take one to the port. And while waiting for the boat to fill in we luckily escape to a scam. A guy stands in front of us and plays pipe (very badly, we´re considering paying him just to finish it) and small brat leans through the window from behind for anything of value on the seats. But we´ve built this reflex when the backpack is on the floor and our legs go through the straps. But we notice the boy only when the playing is finished and he leaves. We wait quite long before the boat fills but then it´s only a short ride to the floating islands of Uros. The whole islands, houses, boats etc is built from reed. Tradition started with a tribe that wanted to escape bloodthirsty campaign of Incas. And hundreds of its people still live here. We like it a lot.
Cusco is very nice - colonial architecture built on Incas basements. And you can easily see how this place was literally bellybutton of the world. This brings along a lot of tourism - sellers, barkers, shoe polishers etc. All of them are absolutely persistent. Even when you tell them their merchandise is ugly and ignore them, they still stand next to you and wouldn´t go away. The remains of Incas walls are fascinating. Perfect working of big boulders - joints thin as paper haven´t moved for thousands years surviving many big earthquakes.
In the evening I go down with mixture of cold and some kind bowel disease. Thanks to recent landslides is the tourist industry suffering. So we managed to haggle the price for a room down from 90 to 30soles. Including TV and breakfast. TV is not usually our priority but now when I´m 3days in bed it´s very handy. Good that the Incas built 365 sacred places around Cusco and Jana has plenty to do.
Second last day of our stay here I get finally better and can join Jana for a tour.
We still hold a hope that we´ll see Macchu Picchu. One of the adventurous local guides offers to drive a jeep below MP. The guards leave at midnight, than we can cross the checkpoints, 4hrs of night trek up, sleep on MP and then have it all for ourselves. It sounds very promising and adventurous. But when we ask for more details everything is very vague and not even the leaving date is known. Unfortunately we don´t have time for this and leave for Arequipa. At least something to look forward for next time :) We already omitted Galapagos, Amazonian jungle and Angels fall...

Pics:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=55558&id=1344786025&l=d1a9382a3e